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06 springer with performance machine master cylinder and calipers.
When I bought the bike I noticed that the rear brakes were pretty soft. Road it for a bit and wasn't happy with the soft rear brake. So I decided to bleed em. After countless hours of trying to bleed I decided that is order up a master cylinder rebuild kit. Installed it and still not building a firm pedal. The only way for me to get decent enough pressure is to put a hose on bleeder, fill the tube and slowly bleed all the air out once I get a little bit of pressure I close the bleeder. I tried to pump, hold, open bleeder and repeat with no luck. I've gotten to the point where I have enough pressure to have the rear brake light light up, but still really soft pedal an little to no rear brake. Kind of lost on what to do next. It has stainless brake lines and if I take the cap off the master cylinder and pump the pedal I don't see any air bubble in the reservoir.
Any suggestions on where to go next?
 

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On the loose
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I wish I had a bigger compressor I think it would work better.

Also check and see if the caliper looks real dirty inside. You may have to pull it off and and get the pistons more exposed but NOT all the way out of the bores , and spray them off with brake clean and scrub the area with a tooth brush, and spray it off again , spray the pads off too.

I pull the pads off and get some wooden door shims to put between the piston faces , once your done cleaning you can pound the shims together , adding more as you go to re-seat the pistons in the caliper.

Taking the rear caliper off is a PIA if it's the same as mine. Gotta pull the rear wheel because the axle go's through the caliper.

Make sure the pistons are moving in and out smoothly using the brake pedal before reassembly , keep some shims in to prevent them from popping out while doing this.
 

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Try bleeding the rear brake switch, bubbles of air can get trapped in the line at the switch. After that go to bleeding at the caliper.
 

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The Fighting Chicken
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I like bleeding my brakes using the syringe method.

Get a large syringe, I think 100cc, with a long rubber hose. Fill the syringe and hose with brake fluid, attach the hose to your bleeder valve. Loosen the valve and push fluid through the line until you don't see air bubbles in your brake fluid or your fluid comes out clean in the master cylinder.

A second syringe to suck the extra fluid from the master cylinder will be needed.

I got my syringes and hose from Tractor Supply Co. for a couple bucks.
 

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I like bleeding my brakes using the syringe method.

Get a large syringe, I think 100cc, with a long rubber hose. Fill the syringe and hose with brake fluid, attach the hose to your bleeder valve. Loosen the valve and push fluid through the line until you don't see air bubbles in your brake fluid or your fluid comes out clean in the master cylinder.

A second syringe to suck the extra fluid from the master cylinder will be needed.

I got my syringes and hose from Tractor Supply Co. for a couple bucks.
I do this on the front brakes , works pretty good :thumbsup
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks, I'll give that a shot today. It's been driving me nuts not being able to bleed the brakes. I hate getting defeated by simple mechanical issues.
 

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The Fighting Chicken
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Thanks, I'll give that a shot today. It's been driving me nuts not being able to bleed the brakes. I hate getting defeated by simple mechanical issues.

Schmidty is a great mechanic and if he says to pull the switch off to check that I'd do that first, then bleed them again.

Good luck!
 

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go to a hardware store & buy a
1`qt. pumper oil can,
a automotive plastic vacuum "T"
about 8 ft. of plastic spegatti
drain resvior of brake fluid.
open your bleed valve on the disc & let it drain overnight.
you clean out the new can with MEK.
for dual disc, you use the "T"and cut it off at appopiate length
so you pump fresh brake fluid thru a short length of hose say 2'
to the bottom of the "T", the fluid then goes thru the schrader
valves into the caliper & up the OEM hard lines to the resivor.
stop pumping when you get it 1/2 full.
remove spagetti & give the brake lever 1 squeese then tighten bleed valve.
you can go to speedbleed.com & order valves for cars & bikes that have a check valve in the bleed screw.
hope this helps
i also use ATE super blue DOT 4 fluid it has a higher boiling piont
etc. i order on-line.
 

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Try bleeding the rear brake switch, bubbles of air can get trapped in the line at the switch. After that go to bleeding at the caliper.
I just replaced the pressure switch on my 04 XL1200 and went about bleeding the lines, seemed to work for a few then it stopped coming out now I have zero brakes. Can you please explain how you can bleed the switch itself? Didn't want to start a new thread so I replied to this one. Thanks.
 

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Hi. I'm new to Harley's. I noticed the comment....bleed at the rear brake switch. I know this probably sounds stupid...but where is the rear brake switch.....and how do you bleed there?

T.
 
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