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Discussion Starter #1
Do rear shocks have to be totally straight from top to bottom eyes? My rears cant out ( useing a spacer)about 1/4" on the bottom or they would hit my lowering bracket.
 

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It's better if they are. The eye bushings will give a bit, but you'll have binding when the shocks compress more than a little. Why don't you add a couple washers behind the top eye to space it out, too?
 

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It would be better to shim the top as well, so the shock isn't canted. There would be less stress on the bushings.
 

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It would be better to shim the top as well, so the shock isn't canted. There would be less stress on the bushings.






It's better if they are. The eye bushings will give a bit, but you'll have binding when the shocks compress more than a little. Why don't you add a couple washers behind the top eye to space it out, too?
Agreed. No need to add stresses if you don't have to

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Discussion Starter #5
What I'm saying
:what?
 

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You have a pretty good side load on the shafts,seals and pistons. They should not squeeze together as they travel up. Spacers may correct, IF you have enough room on the top mounts.
 

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Whoa! I'd fix that ASAP. I imagined a slight offset at the bottom, but that's way too much to ride it as-is. Something's gotta give when you hit that first big pothole...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The only thing I can think of doing is to grind the lowering bracket where the shock hits it and then remove the spacer. Only other option is to shim the top out. I will get some thick fender washers and try that. I don't want to get rid of the lowering.
 

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Yeah, as long as your top mounting bolt is long enough, just shim the top out. If not, a longer bolt will cure that.
 

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There are some lowering blocks that won't cant the bottom of the shocks out like that.


 

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Discussion Starter #11

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Yeah you really need new lowering brackets. The shocks are supposed to be parallel. As the shocks compress that's causing them to bind which will destroy the seals.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Coming Monday.:thumbsup
 
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