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Discussion Starter #1
hi guys Im redoing a 78 ironhead and im going with some 14 apes and new cc controles with the wire set how would yall wire this to the light bucket? outside the bucket and splice into origanal harness, or go inside ? I think i can hide it on the outside with some shrink tube! Im trying to do this like a guy in 78 would trick it out thanx :):confused:
 

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I think that sometimes I`m toooo much of a perfectionist.
Personally I would take it apart and do it right.Anytime You have a splice it is just another thing that can break in the dark.:)
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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It's ok to splice into the original harness, but do it under the tank, and SOLDER the wires, and shrink wrap them. Solderless connectors for THAT job is for hacks.....

Not sure about your question regarding the "Bucket, unless your Shovel is an old FXR model with a 39 mm front fork (sporty) design with the wiring in the headlight bucket.

Watch how much you work inside that bucket, because the room is limited when it comes time to put your bulb back in.

I prefer to remove the tank, unplug the factory harness and on a bench, cut, splice, solder and shrink wrap the new harnedd (longer one) into the old one, about 3" off the new plug. If the new harness comes with the tiny bullet inserts, then just use the old plug and there's no cutting/soldering or wrapping anything...... just use the old plug.
 

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And stagger the splices to keep from getting a big wad in the harness.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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You said, "Big Wad"........ huh...hu.....huh.....
 

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OOOOHHHH NNNNOOOOOO I went and used the b w word.
Lil please do`nt give Me a timeout.:)
 

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I think that sometimes I`m toooo much of a perfectionist.
Personally I would take it apart and do it right.Anytime You have a splice it is just another thing that can break in the dark.:)
I agree. The only splice I've had that held up well is when I ran across some military aircraft splices somewhere :cupcake and used those on my bike.



Mil Spec M81714 incase anyone is interested.

http://dmeelectronics.com/SpecSheets/DME-MILT81714E Series I_blue.pdf
These guys are located near Wichita KS.

If you do a lot of electrical work, I would highly recommend these connectors and the crimpers needed for the pins. For a one time deal, it probably wouldn't be worth it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanx fellas this is a sporty and Im just adding hand controls and they go from handels to the (bucket)headlight assyright on top right ,left on same . going with costom chrome units and not so happy with srews camwith (too long) and snaped one went out and got shorter ons today and git back to that project tomorrow
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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Where the phuck did I get "Shovel" from.........???
 

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I splice my own crap if it saves me time & $$ but I'd rather wire from switch to inside of bucket for a more reliable & professional job.
 

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STAND AND FIGHT!
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Not that you asked for ideas to make this a more complicated job..

The stock wires for headlight power are not as heavy as they should be for brightest headlight performance, and the extra length to and from the handlebar switch is added voltage drop, plus the switch is itself another point of voltage drop. If you have room, and are willing to go to the trouble, running a pair of heavy gauge wires into the headlight bucket for a fused hot and ground and putting the headlight on a relay and use the longer lighter gauge switched stock headlight control wires to activate the relay would be worth your trouble. IMHO.

It would make going up a bit in bulb wattage work even better yet. Stock headlight ouput sucks.
 

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Ms. Subtle
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here is what i would do

get some one else to do it!

i am freakishly scared of wiring .. i know.. i am weird..
 

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Ms. Subtle
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i have a fear of doing something that will catch my bike on fire..

any other wrenching i do myself....

the wiring.. i leave to ppl that know what they are doing
 

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i have a fear of doing something that will catch my bike on fire..
An easy cheat to do there for reassurance. Just be sure there is a fuse, if not more than one fuse. For my 10 gauge heavy wiring direct from the battery connection to my relay driven brighter headlights and "conspicuity" lights, the feed and ground wires are so heavy, you could nearly weld with them, but so long as there is a fuse, in this case I had one 65/70W headlight bulb and 2 20W "conspicuity" bulbs, at the max 110 watts, so by juggling values, I was able to determine that a 20W fuse, let alone a 30W fuse would WAY more than handle the load, yet blow instantly if there is a short.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
 

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An easy cheat to do there for reassurance. Just be sure there is a fuse, if not more than one fuse. For my 10 gauge heavy wiring direct from the battery connection to my relay driven brighter headlights and "conspicuity" lights, the feed and ground wires are so heavy, you could nearly weld with them, but so long as there is a fuse, in this case I had one 65/70W headlight bulb and 2 20W "conspicuity" bulbs, at the max 110 watts, so by juggling values, I was able to determine that a 20W fuse, let alone a 30W fuse would WAY more than handle the load, yet blow instantly if there is a short.

http://www.the12volt.com/ohm/ohmslaw.asp
Don't you mean a 20A fuse?
 

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typo, by a blind-o
 
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