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Discussion Starter #1
So I decided to take the 2010 Street Glide on a TDY out to Keesler AFB. Now that I'm here, the bike is starting VERY sluggishly in the mornings.

Here's some history:

- Replaced Stator about six months ago due to Primary Fluid leak from rubber seal.

- Moved from AZ to FL. Battery went dead. Took it to Autozone, tested good. Installed back onto the bike, went dead again. Took it to Autozone, tested bad. Bought new battery figuring that the climate difference from AZ to FL killed my old one.

- Once new battery was installed, tested running voltage and regulator at 14.7V. Internet specs said anything below 15V is good.

- I normally keep the bike on a tender. No problems at home. Figured my Bluetooth adapter might be draining it while not running. Removed it during overnight storage periods.

- Got to MS, bike barely starts. Charging voltage on the fairing still showing in the upper 14's. Took it to the dealer and the stator tested good. Figured the Voltage Regulator is the only thing left. Bought/installed new one. Running voltage still showing the same on fairing. Bike slugged again this morning.

- Riding it back home to FL this afternoon. I plan on taking a reading from the battery immediately after the ride and again in the morning to see if there's a drain. I don't know of anything else that could be draining it.

- The temps were 32F this morning, but that shouldn't affect a brand new battery. Bike starts fine after running in the morning and at lunch. Only slugs after longer periods of rest.

Any thoughts or starting points for my troubleshooting?

Thanks for any help!
 

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Mississippi Cajun
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Something is draining the battery. did you check to see if there is any current drain happening when bike is idle? Put an ammeter in series with + battery post and battery wire and see if there is any major current flow. That will at least give you a place to start hunting.
 

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if the ammeter shows a drain you can start pulling fuses one at a time. If the current draw drops on one fuse, the ghost or parasitic is in the circuit. Usually ends up being a hot wire that has somehow grounded to the frame or is shorting against its negative partner... Just like a marriage!!
 

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Hit it she goes boom
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All of the above. To determine for sure its a drain over night, disconnect the battery. In the morning hook it back up and see how she starts. Also, check your tender, I had one go bad.
 

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Check the wire harness inside the fairing by the vertical support bracket on the left looking from the front. The harness can rub bare where it crosses over the bracket.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the tips. Battery tested at 12.7 last night and 12.5 this morning. Time to start chasing drains. :-(

The only real things I've changed are a PCV, and 14" apes with internal wiring. I think if the ape wiring was grounding to something, I would lose a control.

I'll keep you guys posted. Looks like I might be taking the cage back to Keesler this weekend. :-(
 

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I think if the ape wiring was grounding to something, I would lose a control.
It would blow a fuse.

To check for battery draw:

Turn the ignition switch off, disconnect the negative cable, set your multimeter to amps, and touch one probe to the battery and the other probe to the disconnected end of the battery cable.

You should read zero amps. Any reading means a battery drain somewhere.

Isolate the circuits by removing fuses one at a time, if you are still reading a battery draw after all fuses have been removed, disconnect the voltage regulator.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Got a draw. Time to start looking at fuses.
 

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You can also set the meter to millivolts, and touch the probes to each side of the fuse, if the circuit is drawing power, you will read millivolts on your meter.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Having to work on this thing on the weekends in between my TDY time. Here's where I am with it:

Finally got some time to start hunting this drain down. Attached my Fluke set to 20A DC in series with the Negative side of the battery. Initially the drain spikes up (I'm assuming this is the computer resetting itself after being off. Then it settles around 0.08 for a few seconds, then drops to 0.00 flat.

The battery has sit disconnected for two weeks. Tested at 12.5V two weeks ago. Tested at 12.4-12.5 (bouncing) just a few minutes ago.

According to my very limited knowledge, it seems my battery is good and I do not have a drain. I think perhaps the draw I mentioned a couple of posts ago was just the computer resetting and I never gave it time to settle.

I'm at a loss now.
 

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Try setting your Fluke to DC volts with battery disconnected, try same test. If I read your post right your on AMPS ?


ARG! what was I thinking. Disconnect bat check again in AMPs....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Right. I'm trying to see if there's a drain. That would require amps if I am not mistaken.
 

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First off, charge the battery. 12.5 is almost dead. Should be at 12.6- 12.8 at full charge.
Then test charging voltage at the battery, with the Fluke, ignore fairing meter, should be 14 or better, at 2000 RPM or so. Sounds like loose battery connections, maybe at the bike end, not the battery end.
 

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Just curious. Has your scooter had an oil leak in the past? Reason I ask is that mine did and oil pooled inside the starter. I had sluggish starting as well until the leak was fixed and they replaced my starter.

If no oil leak please disregard.

Glenn
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just got home again today. The charging system is working fine. It has been tested already. Battery started at 12.7 and fell to 12.5 overnight with everything hooked up. I will charge the battery and leave it disconnected to see if it drops on its own.

I have not noticed an oil leak.
 

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I've posted this once before for someone else. Check all fuses to include the main fuse for any kind of green corrosion. My son-in-law had the same type problem on the main and the bike was not keeping the battery charged. He took it to a dealer and they could not find the problem. He brought the bike home and I told him I can find the problem for him. 20 minutes later I called him over and showed him the problem. We cleaned the corrosion off the fuse and other fuses were cleaned. Two years later the bike is still running great.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I've posted this once before for someone else. Check all fuses to include the main fuse for any kind of green corrosion. My son-in-law had the same type problem on the main and the bike was not keeping the battery charged. He took it to a dealer and they could not find the problem. He brought the bike home and I told him I can find the problem for him. 20 minutes later I called him over and showed him the problem. We cleaned the corrosion off the fuse and other fuses were cleaned. Two years later the bike is still running great.
I will check for this. I took the new battery and had it tested. Tested good and charged. I multi-metered it at 12.7V when I brought it home. I left it unhooked and sitting in the floor. Tested at 12.6V last night. Now, it's bouncing between 12.5V and 12.6V having been unhooked. Seems to me like I have a bad battery. Now to go fight with O'Reilly's for a replacement.
 
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