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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've decided to get the Hi-Flo Air Intake Kit and Screamin Eagle Exhaust 2 into 1 slip on for my Dyna Low. Or maybe the Vance & Hines slip on. The bike will then need to be re-tuned (mapped) to accommodate the upgrade and the Dealer wants almost $800 to do the job using the Dyno. I asked why so much and part of the cost is they give you the fuel pak module after the re-tune. That module cost over $400 but it is yours. They set the bike up and then remove the module to give to you in case you need to change anything at a later date. I'm wondering if the Vance & Hines FuelPak FP3 would be a better choice for only $350 and do the work myself. From what I read everything can be done in a few minutes and your Android phone becomes the Bluetooth link to the system. Anyone done this with the FP3?
 

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I installed the Arlen Ness Big Sucker and the V&H FP3 recently on my '13 Fat Boy. It works great and the engine really came alive, more than I could have imagined. It really woke up that 103 engine.

The thing is that you don't need to do a dyno session with the FP3. V&H has already done that for you and they provide the maps on their website for free. The FP3 accesses those maps, you select the best matching map, then download it to your bike. Then you can auto tune it for better fine tuning if you want.

The FP3 has an auto tune feature that works by simply riding around with the FP3 set to Auto Tune. You then eventually download the auto tune map that the FP3 stores in memory based on your riding.

Good Luck!
 

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I have a 15 Low Rider with 2-1 Patriot and a Big Sucker. I used a PowerVision tuner. It worked really well using the Quik Tune and Auto Tune features. Fuel was added to eliminate popping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I installed the Screamin Eagle exhaust on tonight. I took about a half hour. I've read somewhere that someone had to enlarge the mounting hole on the pipe because it did not align perfectly. Well, I thought I had to do the same. But, instead, I used a sizzor jack under that mounting tab and it lifted the tap just enough to align the bolt and tighten it to specs. Went for a ride and noticed the low end torque immediately. I can spin the tire, now where as before I could not. The sound does not seem much louder. But, I think it is just a bit. But, the sound is a much deeper nicer sound. What I like about this muffler is I can easily change out the baffles to get more sound.

I have the Screamin Eagle intake. But do not want to install it untill I can do another mod to enrichen the fuel. I've ordered from Nightrider.com the 104 FL-ViED-10 to accomplish this feat. It is adjustable and is installed in series with both O2 sensors. Cost $119.
 

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If you want a bit more sound out of the slip on you could always install the Supertrapp open end cap with 5 disks (the open end cap replaces 10 disks). That is what I am running on my LR with the S.E. Nightstick slip on.

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
If you want a bit more sound out of the slip on you could always install the Supertrapp open end cap with 5 disks (the open end cap replaces 10 disks). That is what I am running on my LR with the S.E. Nightstick slip on.

I may just do that.

Today, I installed the Screamin Eagle Air Cleaner Stage 1 System. It was pretty straight forward but good thing I have my own supply of blue locktite because the kit's was not enough. The instructions were pretty straight forward. I decided not to purchase the FP3 from Vance & Hines but instead NightRider.com's FL-ViED-10. This particular device allows me to adjust the bike to run a bit richer because it connects in series with each O2 sensor. I would recommend to download the instructions from their web site because the kit did not come with any. I have the oil cooler and so installing the front O2s sensor device was a bit more time consuming because I had to remove the Electrical Caddy bracket and loosen one bolt for the oil cooler and completely remove the other to be able to move things out of the way to work on the grey connector. Everything worked out just fine and I have my own ties to secure the connectors to the bracket. The rear black connector was much easier to work after taking off the seat. I wanted to run its ground wire to a frame ground already existing behind the battery. So that meant taking out the battery and battery box. But that all went really smooth. After doing a lot of reading on Night Rider's web site, I decided to adjust the electrical pots on each connector to run 50% on the front cylinder and 62.5% on the rear. This forces the O2 sensors to allow the bike to run just a bit more richer and also help in cooling. The rear needed a bit more because it runs hotter. After buttoning everything up and taking the bike out for a test ride up to about 95 mph everything seemed just great.
Before I had trouble taking off from a dead stop and now I can actually spin the rear tire. The NightRider kit cost me $119 plus tax where as the Dealer wanted over $800 to accomplish the same thing using the Dyno. And that did not include the Screamin Eagle Air Filter Kit of ($149) and the Screamin Eagle Slip On for $299. Now to give the mileage test over a few tanks of gas.
 

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Good move. As long as the slip-ons and air cleaner are all you do the ViED seem to work OK.
Anything more than you will need a real tuner.
Ride and enjoy for awhile , might be all you ever need/want.

If you do start going down the road to more performance then seek out a local shop that is a little more friendly..
Your dealer shows why the are commonly referred to as Stealers.

The slipons, like all exhausts, will get a little louder with some miles.. hopefully you can refrain from making it to loud
 
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