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Discussion Starter #1
Are shocks rated for weight that they handle on a given bike,say if you are a solo rider do you just adjust the preload up or down?? My dyna wg. has a pair of aftermarket shocks that the previous owner installed. They lowered the rear 1". With saddlebags and wife on back should i be concerned about my opening question?


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Are shocks rated for weight that they handle on a given bike,say if you are a solo rider do you just adjust the preload up or down?? My dyna wg. has a pair of aftermarket shocks that the previous owner installed. They lowered the rear 1". With saddlebags and wife on back should i be concerned about my opening question?


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Are your shocks adjustable ? If so, add more pre-load as the weight goes up . :)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The shocks on the bike are a Harley version that have a 1-5 adjustable preload,and they lower the suspension about an 1". I have rode 2-up with my wife and we are not magazine models 220/130 respectively and the preload has been set on (5) since I acquired the bike last year.
Never felt like adjusting it back down some. Losing an 1" of travel right off the bat might mean deciding between a lowered ride solo or back to a set of shocks that will support a touring load.
Any thoughts on that idea?
Thx's again.


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I have 12" Progressive Heavy duty 412's on my 02 W/G , that's only 1/2" lower than stock I believe . In order to gain more shock travel I went up two notches which is about right for my 235lbs. Wish I'd have ordered the standard 412's so I could've left them on the lowest setting ! Along with the front fork Rico-Intiminators disc (dampers) provides a pretty smooth ride on rough pavement .
 

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The pre-load or "sag" sets the shock in the "sweet spot" for ideal performance. You should compress about 1/3 of the total travel at-rest when under operating weight. Remember that the shock inside the spring is actually dampening both ways. That is, it controls how quickly the spring compresses as well as returns.

If you have too little sag, the bike will ride stiff and tend to rebound too quickly when you hit something hard. The spring is under more tension and decompresses harder. The spring won't "bottom out" but rather "top out." It makes for a very rough ride and is actually unsafe because you can lose contact with the road.

Too much sag and the bike will bottom out too easily. It also tends to "float" like the front end of a '68 Caddy. The rebound is slower. Obviously this is not good because bottoming out damages tires, wheels and can make for an impact that is hard to recover from.

With shorter travel shocks, the sag is even more important as the margin of error is less.

And to your general question, they do make rated shocks/springs. The more you spend, the more accurate they are. If you can't get the sag right, the shock and spring is not rated for your use.
 
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