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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got back from a lil Harley shop. Picked up some fork oil (LUCUS SYNTHETIC) and a used front brake line I am going to change (Rusted up bad). The fork oil looks like it has never been changed to me. See Pictures. I have emptied out one fork after running back and forth trying to find the right socket 1 1/3 rd " but all I could find was a 3/4 drive so I used a pipe wrench on the socket and finally broke it loose. The big adjustable wrench wouldn't budge it. Question: does this look like the proper amount of fluid for one fork. I thought it used a lot less? It may be exactly half of the oil container I bought. Just curious. I would hate to have to go back for another bottle at 10 bucks a pop. The container holding the old oil is from a Chinese reaturant for a large Won Ton Soup Just for reference as to the amount. The last picture I just took is the entire contents of the LUCUS oil split in half and measures equally in both containers and matches the mark I made of the amount of one fork emptied
 

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mark level after each fork drain- if the same put that much back in

i just did a 2002 dyna and what drained was the same as i was told to use from a google search-
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Ok I'm going to go with it then. as long as I had as much left to do the other fork I should be OK. I added another photo to the original post. Thanks rosconey
 

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I usually go with slightly heavier oil since I like my folks a little
on the firm side. If I remember right, I last used 10w or 15w and
added a little more than came out, again to firm things up and keep
it from diving on hard braking.

Remember to raise that front end to the front wheel is slightly off
the ground to extend the forks when you go and try to put that fork
cap-screw back on, against that spring.

Good Luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yea the Fork tube caps where not much fun at all. Put it back together and installed the brake line from Caliper up only to find the upper line fitting on mine was bigger than the lower. Ripped it back off going back the to LIL Harley shop today. I hope he has more used in the back. Although My old one is a bit rusted I think the rubber grommets in the seal washers are just worn down. May have to use it a bit more but that DOT5 Brake fluid is expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I usually go with slightly heavier oil since I like my folks a little
on the firm side. If I remember right, I last used 10w or 15w and
added a little more than came out, again to firm things up and keep
it from diving on hard braking.

Remember to raise that front end to the front wheel is slightly off
the ground to extend the forks when you go and try to put that fork
cap-screw back on, against that spring.

Good Luck!
I agree with a bit heavier oil but that's all he had on the shelf. 20 WT. Compared to what came out I'm sure I'll notice a difference. After taking it out seems like the brakes don't grab as tight maybe due to the front end not diving down. I did get a replacement Front brake line and put it on before the first ride after new oil. Might just have a bit of fluid on the shoes
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
The fork caps should come off fairly easy - did you loosen the pinch bolts on the upper tree first?
AS I said the oil looks as if it had never been changed. since 1993. The O rings must have been holding it really tight. They came off easy after the initial break. The front end is working much better not diving now but I find I have to use much more pressure to get it to slow down. I bled some extra fluid out of the master as I had it topped off and it helped some. It was better when I didn't have to work that hard to get it to slow down. I figured there was an air lock and there needed to be room for the fluid to flow inside the master. It helped some. I find myself using more back brake pedal now than I did before.
 

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Your shop manual gives the correct amount. Read it!
Mine did not for my 2010 XL1200X. Manual says 14 Oz each fork I used that and my forks are stiff as all hell. My system was dry when I did this as I took the sliders off for painting.

It mentioned a tool to measure the oil that I don't have. For now I'm going to deal with it if I get sick of it I'll take the forks off and let the local indy take car of it for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Mine did not for my 2010 XL1200X. Manual says 14 Oz each fork I used that and my forks are stiff as all hell. My system was dry when I did this as I took the sliders off for painting.

It mentioned a tool to measure the oil that I don't have. For now I'm going to deal with it if I get sick of it I'll take the forks off and let the local indy take car of it for me.
One post said 10. 3 onz per side for sportster. when I emptied mine. I did the right side and only 8 onz came out. The bottle I bought was 16 onz. That's what I put in It seems fine. I will try this for a time and if I'm not happy I,ll go to 10 WT 20 onz
 

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Mine did not for my 2010 XL1200X. Manual says 14 Oz each fork I used that and my forks are stiff as all hell. My system was dry when I did this as I took the sliders off for painting.

It mentioned a tool to measure the oil that I don't have. For now I'm going to deal with it if I get sick of it I'll take the forks off and let the local indy take car of it for me.
The "Tool" you're looking for is a hollow tube with a syringe . You push the tube in so many inches, then suck out any excess oil . The procedure is in your Service Manual . :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Looks like I'm 1 onz short here is info for you doing the job
"Dry fork requires .5 to 1.0oz more than the wet amount due to residual oil left clinging inside the fork." Use 20 weight for average conditions. For extreme conditions use 10 weight or 30 weight accordingly."

-WET: Means you just drained the oil out of the plug and want to refill it.

-DRY: Means you disassembled the forks and cleaned them dry inside/out.

WET.....DRY...(oz)............MODEL/YEAR.........................................

5.5 ..... 6.5 ...... Sportster thru 1972
5.0 ..... 6.0 ..... Sportster 1972-83
5.4 ..... 6.5 ..... Sportster 1984-87
9.0 ..... 10.2 ..... Sportster 1988-2003
10.5 .... 11.6 ..... Sportster 2004-08
9.0 ..... 10.2 ..... XL 883 Hugger thru 1991
10.7 ..... 12.1 ..... XL Hugger 1992-99
6.5 ..... 7.0 ..... FL/FLH 1948-E77
7.75 ..... 8.5 ..... FL/FLH L1977-84
7.75 ...... 8.5 ..... FLT 1980-97
8.7 ..... 9.7 ..... FLT 1998-2001
10.1 ..... 11.1 ...... FLHR 2002-09
5.5 ..... 6.5 ..... FX/FXE 1972
5.0 ..... 6.0 ..... FX/FXE 1973-83
6.0 ..... 7.0 ..... FXR/FXRS 1985-86
9.0 ..... 10.2 ..... FXR/FXRS 1991-94
9.2 ..... 10.2 ..... Dyna/Low Rider 1991-2005
10.2 ..... 11.2 ..... Dyna Wide Glide 1991-2005
9.0 ..... 10.2 ..... FXWG/FXST 1980-84
10.2 ..... 11.2 ..... FXWG/FXST 1985-2006
11.5 ..... 12.5 ..... FLST 1986-2006
12.4 ..... 13.4 ..... FLST 2007-09
11.5 ..... 12.5 ..... FXST 2007-09
10.5 ..... 11.6 ..... FXSTD 2007
 

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Mine did not for my 2010 XL1200X. Manual says 14 Oz each fork I used that and my forks are stiff as all hell. My system was dry when I did this as I took the sliders off for painting.

It mentioned a tool to measure the oil that I don't have. For now I'm going to deal with it if I get sick of it I'll take the forks off and let the local indy take car of it for me.
You could use something like this to draw out some oil to get it to the right level.

Amazon.com: Motion Pro 08-0121 Fork Oil Level Tool: Automotive
 
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