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Hi all,

I have a 2007 Ultra that I dearly love. Just turned 47K on it, and it runs great except for one irritating problem. Occasionally, it will drop down to 400-500 RPM when stopping at a light, or pulling in the clutch lever and coasting a bit. Seems to be an issue when it heats up, although yesterday was the worst ever. Did it every single time, even when cold, for about 20 mins, and after a quick errand, it ran fine the rest of the day. Today was likewise, did it for about 7-10 mins, I ran into a store, and it purred like a kitten on the way home.

Each time it retires immediately if I let it go all the way and stall. I can easily save it by blipping the throttle, but am tired of keeping a bike running at an intersection while on a hill while watching for cages. I noticed today when it stalled the voltmeter was down around 11.5V. I just put the meter on the battery, got 12.3 cold, dropped to about 11.5, maybe 12 when ignition was on, and when it fired, it slowly climbed from 12 to 13.8. I see a big difference between 900 and 1000 on my tach, at 1K it seems to idle very well, with great voltage. Down around 800,900, it seems to park right on 12, 12.5V, but it seems jumpy and not nearly as smooth.

The last few weeks it hadn't done it at all, but the last two days it is doing it a lot. Battery is 2 seasons old, always on a trickle in the off season, and it has never cranked slow, even after sitting 10 days. Does not seem like a battery problem. If the voltage regulator is bad, and letting it drop at idle, could it cause the bike to die entirely? It also seems like it may be a harness or plug somewhere, I just dread chasing that around the bike.

Any advice? Thanks in advance..

Dig
 

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Check all your bat cables, both ends. Take battery out for a load test by your dealer or a shop you can trust,12.7 volts is 100%. Voltages seem a bit low. Believe it should 14.3 to 14.7 dc volts @ 3600rpm. Good Luck
 

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Reset your cold and hot idle settings. Standard idle is 1050 rpms .

Voltage will be low if idle is low , check voltage at 1050 rpms and then at every 1000 rpms after that . Chart for voltage is in the MoCo Service Manual .
 

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I had a battery that was only 2 years old, it went bad and wouldn't start the bike when it was hot, if you do a lot of short distances a battery goes bad sooner than it should.
 

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I would also check the throttle body. At 47K you have enough miles to have accumulated enough dirt/sludge deposits to affect the idle performance. The throttle body on a fuel injection system needs to be very clean. I believe there is also an idle air by-pass circuit that may need attention. The crankcase ventilation system can also affect idle quality if it needs service.

--
 

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IAC valve may need a cleaning.
 

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X2 iac. My 05 did the same thing. Cleaned it and it helped for a while. But it got bad again. New iac isn't that expensive.
 

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X2 iac. My 05 did the same thing. Cleaned it and it helped for a while. But it got bad again. New iac isn't that expensive.
Pulled A/C plate off this weekend. Really gave the IAC a good flushing. I could hear it resetting itself when cycling ignition switch on/off, now its quiet. Used a mirror to look at MAP sensor. Hit it with some electronics cleaner, see it removed some deposits. Gave the Temp sensor a shot also. Throttle plates & seating areas cleaned. Idle sounds better. Rode 80 miles Sunday ran great. Pulled plugs yesterday just curious,, very clean. :smile
 

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What is EITMS ?
Engine Temperature Management System. On '08 and newer, it cuts fuel to one cylinder when it gets to a certain temp. at idle. As soon as the throttle is moved, normal fuel flow resumes.
 

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Dig; I also have an 07 Electra Glide, and suffered similer problems to yours. During my last dyno runs in July, my operator questioned me about the fuel filter changes, as he was having a leaning out issue after 3000 rpm's. Having never changed it with 47,000 miles, like yours, I bought the filter from V-Twin (half the price of Harleys) and installed it. This made a huge differance in both running and idle. I litterly could not even blow thru the old filter it was so plugged. Turns out the Harley manual calls for 20,000 mile replacements on the fuel filter. (oops) Now with almost 53000 on the bike, it is running as near perfect as a Harley can get. The ocassional stall I get now is maybe a couple times a day at the most, nothing like before. One thing I did find helps after it stalls, is to shut the ignition switch off and turn it back on and restart the bike as that seems to reset the ECM. But the biggest help was a new fuel filter. My wife and I did almost 300 touring miles today with out a stall even once. Hope this will help. B.B.D.
 

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Also, on your charging issues, mine did the same thing for a year or so. Low charging, one time down to 10 amps. Seemed to charge correctly if I shut the bike off and restarted it. Talked to my local Harley shop who perscribed a new voltage regulator, which I did buy from Harley and install. 14.2 everytime since. I did notice when I removed the old regulator, the silicone sealing on the back side had heat stress cracks in the silicone adjacent to where the wires from the stator attached to the regulator. I had replaced the battery with a factory unit last year, but it was acting up again this spring, so I replaced the regulator too. The Harlet unit is pricey, but it is a criticle part of proper charging, so I bought theirs. B.B.D.
 

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Wayward Son
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I have one thing to say about HD branded parts.

You can buy better. But you can`t pay more.
:laugh
 

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B.B.Dave; See Softail Billys #9 post above. Flushing the IAC really helps the stalling problem. I have a simple step by step if you want it.
 

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Just for the sake of it I just replaced my regulator. There was so much road grime where the regulator plugs into the stator harness (Inches from the regulator) I had to really work on it to get it clean. 24 K miles The problem I found was that the output wire that has a connection before the battery under my seat was really worn and only had a few strands of copper wire holding it together. I repaired the wire end with a wire EYE and attached it straight to the fuse eliminating the connection point and have no issue since.
 
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