Starter/Compensator/Primary issues

It is not your starter or ring gear!
The problem is the engine compensator sprocket!
The stock compensator sprocket is junk in the 96 ci engine and should be replaced with the SE version of the compensator sprocket.
HD has been having problems with the compensator on the 07 and later models and the SE version is OEM in the trikes since 2010 and touring models since 2011.
HD SE compensator was having oiling problems which caused premature failure and HD just came out with a new version of the compensator in 2014 and this version is suppose to oil itself better.
On my 08 I had the same problem and HD replaced the starter at 8,000 miles, the problem returned around 3,000 miles later and I put the SE compensator in the bike.
Since then I had to replace the SE compensator again but I am still using the same starter that was put in at 8,000 miles and it works fine and the bike has over 80,000 miles on it. My bike has a 103 stage II with no compression releases.

I also put in the Hayden primary chain tensioner and it works great too.

96 ci seemed to be the limit for the old style compensators. A few worked well for many miles but most were inadequate from the factory or became too weak in just a few miles. If you had been living with the loud bang or crack noise when you hit the starter button, that noise was the compensator running out of movement and hitting the stop hard. That would "reflect" back and over time would destroy the starter clutch (sprag clutch in the starter drive.)
The sprag clutch is a metal to metal arrangement and when it slips, it is a high frequency chatter. That creates that terrible "grinding" noise you hear. Changing the starter drive will be a short term fix and the weak compensator will destroy the new one pretty quickly. It is best to go with a new comp and starter drive at the same time though sometimes the new comp will allow the old starter drive to work well enough for a bit longer.

Companies are working on after market non-Harley compensators but it is taking a long time and lots of testing is revealing that it is a difficult problem to develop a reliable replacement. While being neither an engineer nor a professional mechanic, I have a concern that a solid sprocket will subject the rest of the drive line to continual vibration and shock loads which over time will find the next weakest part in the system.

The current Harley compensator kit is aimed at '11 and newer bikes needing new compensators. They came from the factory with an earlier version of the SE comp and have a rotor compatible with the bellville springs used since '11. The pre-11 machines had a coil spring in a retainer can welded to the rotor and that arrangement makes the old rotor incompatible with the new compensator. You will need to buy the newer style rotor along with the new comp because the newer style rotor is no longer included in the kit. The total in parts will be around $500, a bit less if you find a discount outlet, a bit more if pay full retail. The latest comp has its problems also. I have no idea how much is due to a still weak design, how much to poor manufacturing, or how much to the lube selected by the owners of the machines. You will find a drastic and satisfying improvement over your current comp and with a little luck the replacement will be the last one you'll need to buy. I have had an AllBalls starter drive in use for 55,000 miles and 5 years and it has been flawless so far. Good luck however you go.

Woops, add in another $110+ for the starter drive.

Would someone please explain their thinking to me. :dunno

You have a rubber mounted rear sprocket .
A drive belt.
A rear primary drive sprocket.
A chain drive.
And a front primary drive sprocket.

Has anyone really looked at how the "compensator" is put together ?

Two pieces with lobes that bang together in both directions in slots, under spring pressure. And this is going to soften the "impacts" that the drive train encounters ??? Really now ??? :what?

I am not certain what your question is, I replaced my stock compensator with the SE type and had all of the pieces in my hands. The sprocket is driven by the cam piece, the sprocket is not directly attached to the crank shaft. The cam piece is splined to the crank shaft but is free to move in and out on those splines. The springs push the cam firmly against the sprocket spokes. The engine tries to speed up with each power stroke after ignition and puts sudden force on the cam. The cam applies this force to the sprocket which is not free to speed up with the engine so some of the force is absorbed by the springs as the cam rotates away from the valley toward the peak. As the force from the power stroke dissipates, the engine force on the cam decreases and the cam moves back toward the valley position and the springs release the stored energy into the sprocket smoothing the power transfer. As the engine goes into the compression stroke, it tries to slow down, now the cam displaces in the other direction as the bikes inertia tries to "push" the engine. The springs absorb some of that force. When combustion happens again, the whole process begins again. Without the compensator, both the power pulse and the compression deceleration would be directly transferred to the drive line and into the frame. This would cause a constant, harsh buzzing vibration you would feel all the while the engine is running. Taking a trip would be like sitting on a power mower engine hour after hour with all of that vibration going into you and the frame. I don't know how clear this is, hope it helps.