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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Finally got around to washing the bike, and when I got to the back wheel I found that the belt is hanging on by a thread. Didn't see it before because it was hidden up inside the primary case..glad I haven't ridden her before I found this..and really glad she had enough left in her to get me home after the New Year day ride. I haven't had to do this job yet, so wish me luck.
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Wheel Tire Hood Automotive tire Automotive lighting
 

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What did happen to that? Something in the belt pulley? It doesn't show as normal wear. My 85 electra glide belt went to 60,000 miles. When the rear pulley wore out it started by tearing every fourth lug of belt.This was caused by the hardening of the cast aluminum rear pulley. It just wore through hardening and started wearing away the little teeth like a steel sprocket that has worn out.
 

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The OP needs to determine what caused that gash in the belt. Is that the only place on the belt with damage ? What about the debris deflector (belt guard), any damage to that ?
 
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Also that damage looks familiar to a belt I replaced on a customer's Ultra some years ago. Several rear sprocket bolts got loose and walked out far enough to contact the belt and take similar chunks out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
My want to inspect the drive pulleys, that could have been something that got caught in the belt....
Rear pulley looks ok, still have to pull the primary case to inspect the front. Thanks for the heads up. I'm hoping that I will get started on the tear down tonight..friggin job gets in the way of important things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What did happen to that? Something in the belt pulley? It doesn't show as normal wear. My 85 electra glide belt went to 60,000 miles. When the rear pulley wore out it started by tearing every fourth lug of belt.This was caused by the hardening of the cast aluminum rear pulley. It just wore through hardening and started wearing away the little teeth like a steel sprocket that has worn out.
I had noticed a small crack in the belt earlier but as it wasn't too bad I took the risk and kept going. Guess it was worse than I thought, Grandfather Great Spirit was looking out for me for sure
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The OP needs to determine what caused that gash in the belt. Is that the only place on the belt with damage ? What about the debris deflector (belt guard), any damage to that ?
So far that appears to be the only place, I'm thinking I may have picked up a rock or something that finished it off. I will go through everything very thorough and definitely find the cause, if not I may just replace both pulleys just to be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks to all the members who picked up on this post and gave very helpful feedback. This will be my first attempt at this repair so if anyone has some tips or warnings that I need to be aware of, I will say thanks in advance.
 

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Thanks to all the members who picked up on this post and gave very helpful feedback. This will be my first attempt at this repair so if anyone has some tips or warnings that I need to be aware of, I will say thanks in advance.
I'd look at the inner primary bearing and seal while in there possibly the shifter shaft seal too. The clutch is left hand threads. All the tips I have from the one I did a while back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks brotha, I did notice some grease and dirt around the shifter shaft while inspecting around the back of the inner primary, so I will address that as well. Might as well check out my shift dog as well, neutral is a bear to find while the engine is running. I read how the clutch is reverse thread in the manual I have, so I knew about that trick, but thanks for the heads up on that.. James gasket or Cometic gaskets, what's your take on that?
 

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Hey OP do you have a factory Harley service manual ? I wouldn't try what you plan on doing yourself without that most important tool ! Then follow the manual to the book, no shortcuts IMO. I wouldn't do a drive belt R&R without a lift bench and scissor jack much less the other special tools needed. You're biting off a whole bunch of chew dude !
You might want to reconsider this DIY project, might cost you more than if you have a certified shop do it for you IMO.
BUY HEY this is what it's all about right ? We do it because it's fun and it's a challenge !
 

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Grizzly, Schmidty's are in-house pro, so per his disclaimer, he know what he's talking about. I, with a big help from my son replaced the belt on my old Road King, so yup, follow the manual to a tee and you should be fine far as replacement. If you've noticed any odd oil leaks around shifter, you may want a certified tech do the job for you and address the oil leaks along with the belt replacement. It its in your comfort zone, what better way to learn and knowing it done right by doing it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Hey OP do you have a factory Harley service manual ? I wouldn't try what you plan on doing yourself without that most important tool ! Then follow the manual to the book, no shortcuts IMO. I wouldn't do a drive belt R&R without a lift bench and scissor jack much less the other special tools needed. You're biting off a whole bunch of chew dude !
You might want to reconsider this DIY project, might cost you more than if you have a certified shop do it for you IMO.
BUY HEY this is what it's all about right ? We do it because it's fun and it's a challenge !
Thanks man, yeah I have a service manual from HD and a Clymer's, both say the same thing, I'm not a master mechanic by any stretch, but been wrenching for a good many years on vehicles and industrial machines, so I'm not too worried, and I take a lot of pictures, smart phones and all. And your right my man, it's a challenge and one of the things no one can take away from you is what you know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Wow! What a mutha that clutch hub nut was, got it off tho, now to figure out how to pull the hub without the HD-95960-52B puller..still have the compensating sprocket nut to do..only took me an hour and a trip to hardware store to get a 6 point impact socket to get the clutch nut off..gonna take it slow and try to do it as right as I can.
 

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I would draw arrow for rotation direction on chain or better yet a new primary chain also while your there consider new clutch bearing
 

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OP needs to leave the clutch in place, the jam bar wedges between the clutch hub and comp sprocket. The jam bar can be fabbed from an old flat file, just measure between the sprocket and hub on an angle and cut the file to that length. Jam bar fits between the teeth of both.
 

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Thanks Schmidty, I got the clutch sprocket loose but didn't remove it and I made a jamb bar out of hardwood, I have to hit the tool store to get a socket to remove the comp nut today, at least that's my plan .
 

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And if you thought the clutch hub nut was tight.............................
 
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