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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
Im stoked, I'm already takin long road trips in my mind.
Every metric I had was a 5 speed and no matter what size the motor was, I always felt I needed a taller final.
Seemed on my 1700 roadstar at 80 mph, that thing was screaming and buzzy.
When I went to harley and got a six speed, it was not laboring at all going 80 to 90 down the freeway 2 up.
 

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1997 Softail Custom (FXSTC)
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Sardonicus installed a Baker 6 speed in his EVO. :nod
Yeah, I went with the DD6, though I bought a complete transmission rather than the builder's kit.

Just a few notes if you're deciding on a 6 speed...

If first gear feels a little too jerky and unruly to you, see if they have an option for a taller first gear. Baker offers optional taller first gears, I'd highly recommend it. My first gear ratio is a 2.94 on my lighter FX softail. I no longer need to drag the rear brake in a parking lot for low speed/first gear control and it just makes it so much smoother and it lasts a bit longer, like it doesn't start wanting to shift to second under normal cruising conditions until it hits about 25 mph (instead of struggling at 15 mph to get to 20 with the stock ratio). Bear in mind though, taking off from a dead stop with a taller first gear, you do have to give it a touch more throttle and your dead stop take off speed when 2-up will be a little slower. My engine build was more toward the torquey side though, taller first is better for reining in torquier low ends on lighter loads, shorter first is better for heavier loads.

The other thing about the 6th gear... it's worth having as an option if you know, it isn't much more than the 5 speed, but you may or may not use it as much as you might think you would. My Evo does 85 ft-lbs at 3700 rpm and does no less than 80 ft-lbs anywhere over 2,000 rpm (and anything under 2K would be lugging anyway), and it has a peak horsepower of also about 85. I'm on trips all the time and it doesn't lug in 6th if I am going 75+ mph. 6th gear is basically a "maintain speed" gear, even if you're doing 95 MPH, it's not going to accelerate very quick.

Now, the Baker DD6 is by far the most efficient 6th gear out there (because 6th in the DD6 is a 1:1 ratio inside the transmission and is the direct drive gear and the primary is overdriven to achieve the effective .86:1 gear ratio). You will lose fuel mileage running 6th gear even in the most efficient setup if you're trying to maintain speed in a hilly area. I said I do trips every year, the only time I use 6th gear is on flat, level ground or downhill at 75+ mph (usually more like 80+ mph). A true overdrive gear will be less efficient and usually 5th gear is a 1:1 ratio and direct drive in a true OD 6 transmission, but despite my 6th gear being direct drive, it's less fuel efficient than running my indirect 5th gear that's an effective 1:1 ratio whenever there's hills. It takes exponentially a lot more gas to push anything over 1:1 when there's hills involved. Here, it's almost no flat ground. Going to my mother's, I tested it on I-10 going 80 mph in 6th and not down-shifting to 5th for hills and ran 38 mpg (normally just staying in 5th, I get 45-48 mpg on the same trip). That said, when I went to Texas last year, I used 6th on flat ground only at 80 mph and didn't lose any fuel mileage. Only use the overdrive on level ground or downhill at a set speed, otherwise you'll sacrifice fuel mileage for that lower engine RPM.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
Yeah, I went with the DD6, though I bought a complete transmission rather than the builder's kit.

Just a few notes if you're deciding on a 6 speed...

If first gear feels a little too jerky and unruly to you, see if they have an option for a taller first gear. Baker offers optional taller first gears, I'd highly recommend it. My first gear ratio is a 2.94 on my lighter FX softail. I no longer need to drag the rear brake in a parking lot for low speed/first gear control and it just makes it so much smoother and it lasts a bit longer, like it doesn't start wanting to shift to second under normal cruising conditions until it hits about 25 mph (instead of struggling at 15 mph to get to 20 with the stock ratio). Bear in mind though, taking off from a dead stop with a taller first gear, you do have to give it a touch more throttle and your dead stop take off speed when 2-up will be a little slower. My engine build was more toward the torquey side though, taller first is better for reining in torquier low ends on lighter loads, shorter first is better for heavier loads.

The other thing about the 6th gear... it's worth having as an option if you know, it isn't much more than the 5 speed, but you may or may not use it as much as you might think you would. My Evo does 85 ft-lbs at 3700 rpm and does no less than 80 ft-lbs anywhere over 2,000 rpm (and anything under 2K would be lugging anyway), and it has a peak horsepower of also about 85. I'm on trips all the time and it doesn't lug in 6th if I am going 75+ mph. 6th gear is basically a "maintain speed" gear, even if you're doing 95 MPH, it's not going to accelerate very quick.

Now, the Baker DD6 is by far the most efficient 6th gear out there (because 6th in the DD6 is a 1:1 ratio inside the transmission and is the direct drive gear and the primary is overdriven to achieve the effective .86:1 gear ratio). You will lose fuel mileage running 6th gear even in the most efficient setup if you're trying to maintain speed in a hilly area. I said I do trips every year, the only time I use 6th gear is on flat, level ground or downhill at 75+ mph (usually more like 80+ mph). A true overdrive gear will be less efficient and usually 5th gear is a 1:1 ratio and direct drive in a true OD 6 transmission, but despite my 6th gear being direct drive, it's less fuel efficient than running my indirect 5th gear that's an effective 1:1 ratio whenever there's hills. It takes exponentially a lot more gas to push anything over 1:1 when there's hills involved. Here, it's almost no flat ground. Going to my mother's, I tested it on I-10 going 80 mph in 6th and not down-shifting to 5th for hills and ran 38 mpg (normally just staying in 5th, I get 45-48 mpg on the same trip). That said, when I went to Texas last year, I used 6th on flat ground only at 80 mph and didn't lose any fuel mileage. Only use the overdrive on level ground or downhill at a set speed, otherwise you'll sacrifice fuel mileage for that lower engine RPM.
Awesome info, yeah my stock first gear was a little touchy, I just thought my throttle cables were a little wonky, I will ask the guy at the shop tomorrow morning about taller first gear. I ride a lot, mostly commute to and from work but on days off I just pick a direction and go. Not too many hills that aren't gradual. But if I head west I will eventually hit the smokey mountains. I don't get up there often as I used to, but Gawd! I love the mountains. Thanks again for the heads up. Ride safe my brother.
 

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Finally got around to washing the bike, and when I got to the back wheel I found that the belt is hanging on by a thread. Didn't see it before because it was hidden up inside the primary case..glad I haven't ridden her before I found this..and really glad she had enough left in her to get me home after the New Year day ride. I haven't had to do this job yet, so wish me luck. View attachment 803886 View attachment 803886
That would bug me forever trying to figure out how it could get that way. Can't see perfectly in the photos but looks almost like it got eaten by something corrosive . . . r mice got hungry in the garage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
That would bug me forever trying to figure out how it could get that way. Can't see perfectly in the photos but looks almost like it got eaten by something corrosive . . . r mice got hungry in the garage.
That's very possible, the bike sat for years in an old open door barn before I bought her..I dropped of the transmission to a local shop and he said it doesn't look as bad as I first thought. He's pretty certain that all I will need is a new main shaft and possibly a new 5 th gear..so some good news.. I got the inner primary case painted tonight, just waiting for the finish to cure up before I handle it..gonna get all new gaskets and seals for transmission and primary, and new front pully and belt..
 

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WOWser ! Now I find out :cool:
My 1st belt replacement occurred on the garage floor with a Harbor-Freight motorcycle $ 90.00 jack
but I did have the assistance of a bonafide Harley-Davidson SERVICE MANUAL :)
Admittedly a MOTORCYCLE "lift" and a SCISSOR - JACK sure makes this JOB (any JOB) easier !!!
just gather the GASKET SETS / LUBE and possible service replacement parts BEFORE you start
[email protected]@D LUCK
...
COOP

.....................................
Hey OP do you have a factory Harley service manual ? I wouldn't try what you plan on doing yourself without that most important tool ! Then follow the manual to the book, no shortcuts IMO. I wouldn't do a drive belt R&R without a lift bench and scissor jack much less the other special tools needed. You're biting off a whole bunch of chew dude !
You might want to reconsider this DIY project, might cost you more than if you have a certified shop do it for you IMO.
BUY HEY this is what it's all about right ? We do it because it's fun and it's a challenge !
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
WOWser ! Now I find out :cool:
My 1st belt replacement occurred on the garage floor with a Harbor-Freight motorcycle $ 90.00 jack
but I did have the assistance of a bonafide Harley-Davidson SERVICE MANUAL :)
Admittedly a MOTORCYCLE "lift" and a SCISSOR - JACK sure makes this JOB (any JOB) easier !!!
just gather the GASKET SETS / LUBE and possible service replacement parts BEFORE you start
[email protected]@D LUCK
...
COOP

.....................................
Thanks my brother, the bike lift is for sure on the wish( need) list..gonna drop off some cash to the shop to get the trans right, and order the gaskets and new seals this weekend. I'm gonna get my shop cleaned up a little bit this Saturday, we are expecting an ice storm for this weekend so that will be a good day to crank up the heaters and get everything ready for some wrenching.. I painted the inner primary case last night, and it turned out not too pretty bad...
 

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You鈥檝e gotten quite a bit done in a short time and appear to be rolling through this. Nice job! First time is always the toughest But this will let you really be in touch with your machine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
You鈥檝e gotten quite a bit done in a short time and appear to be rolling through this. Nice job! First time is always the toughest But this will let you really be in touch with your machine.
Thanks for the encouragement, so much need done on this bike that at times it seems overwhelming, but I just break it down into smaller jobs and I find it's going at a pretty good pace, I'm going to Hog Country ( the shop I'm using for the transmission) tomorrow to sit down with Ted the owner, and we are going to start ordering parts. I got the rear caliper stripped and painted, and got it back together after it was dry enough to handle. There are a lot of rusty and just plain nasty fasteners that I'm either polishing or painting, if I could get a job restoring old bikes I would be a much happier dude, I've heard it said if you love what you do, you never work a day of your life.馃
 

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It's a Frankenstein, the engine is a 99 Evo and the frame transmission and primary are from a 94 or thereabouts.
Since it is not known what year the drivetrain is, make sure when going back together that you use the latest model belt sprocket and hardware, 1995 and later components are what you want.

Mid `94 and earlier sprockets were notorious for coming loose...

They may still be available as a kit from the dealer, Part Number for the kit is 40210-85D.

Sprocket 40250-94C
Spacer 33344-94
Quad seal 11165
Big oil seal 12067B
Nut 35211-91B
Lock 40251-92A
Screws (2) 3594 (use new screws).
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Since it is not known what year the drivetrain is, make sure when going back together that you use the latest model belt sprocket and hardware, 1995 and later components are what you want.

Mid `94 and earlier sprockets were notorious for coming loose...

They may still be available as a kit from the dealer, Part Number for the kit is 40210-85D.

Sprocket 40250-94C
Spacer 33344-94
Quad seal 11165
Big oil seal 12067B
Nut 35211-91B
Lock 40251-92A
Screws (2) 3594 (use new screws).
Hell yeah brother, thanks for the info, I was looking online for the individual parts, good they come in a kit, that will save me a ton of searching.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
Hey everyone, just posting an update on the FLST. So far I've rebuilt the ignition switch and mount, cleaned out the fuel lines and both tanks are soaking, damn, those things were full of rust.. looking better by the day. Parts are on the way for the transmission, and I just finished cleaning up the carb and replaced the oil pressure gauge with a nice one from Lowbrow, I downloaded the colony catalog and I've been looking at the killer hardware, it's freezing rain and bouts of snow here, so perfect weather for hanging out in the shop and turning wrenches. It's going to be great to get the bike back together and ride, still going to always be a work in progress, I still want to freshen up the front end at some point in the future. The fork tubes under the shrouds look like someone tried to remove them with pipe wrenches.馃が.
 

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New tubes aren't that expensive from what I remember.
 
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Sounds like you got it going your way. They probably used a pipe wrench as a back up to get the fork nuts out. I can鈥檛 say I鈥檝e never done anything like that but at least I knew enough to pad it. That was before I had an impact for that type of thing.
 
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