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I have a sportster and I'm putting drags on it .I was told to use torque cones. But I've seen many people use a welded washer on a 1/4 " bolt ......which method is better
 

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Smiles. A lot!
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By no means am I an expert or actually. ..I probably don't have any knowledge at all on the topic. ..lol but I well put all my marbles in the torque cone! Someone here will know your answer
 

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Kicking Rocks...
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By no means am I an expert or actually. ..I probably don't have any knowledge at all on the topic. ..lol but I well put all my marbles in the torque cone! Someone here will know your answer

But you did stay at a Holiday Inn last night....
 

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South GA Redneck
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Lol. In all seriousness. There is a thread somewhere about the washers welded to the bolts in drag pipes....but of course I'm too lazy to look it up!! :D
 

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I'm not going to enter the which is better, just add a e-z alternative.
Use a "eye-bolt" instead of going to the trouble of welding a washer on. Also some report that just a straight bolt works well.
 

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Big City Thunder Monsters.

Applies the whole eye-bolt washer concept in an anti-reversion baffle and works great.

Been there, tried it all, no comparison. BCTM is the answer to the Drag Pipe Blues.
 

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By no means am I an expert or actually. ..I probably don't have any knowledge at all on the topic. ..lol but I well put all my marbles in the torque cone! Someone here will know your answer
I would think that would make a whole bunch of noise. ;)
 

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3" from the end, drill a clearence hole for a 5/16" bolt(1 1/2" long)
With the bolt in the pipe, stack 3-4 3/8" nuts on the bolt, and nut it.
Scott
 

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So what we are assuming here is that functionally torque cones and a washer on a bolt do the same thing.

I always thought that the cones provided more of an anti-reversion effect as opposed to an increase in backpressue per the washers.

It would pay to research this more.
 

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At the port, you have a raw flame that is 6"-8" or more.
Really do not want to disrupt that, but rather control things on the other end, at least from our experience.:thumbsup
Scott
 

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At the port, you have a raw flame that is 6"-8" or more.
Really do not want to disrupt that, but rather control things on the other end, at least from our experience.:thumbsup
Scott
I know for a fact that Hillside knows a whole lot more about all this than me, but I can only speak from actual experience. But I'll back up his advice with the following:

I ran open drag pipes on my old Sportster for a long time. I knew they were junk as far as street performance, but I just loved the sound. Eventually I went through the motor with performance pistons, cams, etc. and the bike was really strong way up on top, but just still didn't have that low RPM torque that is so useful on the street.

I began to experiment with different things. I tried torque cones and my bike ran worse, and I do mean worse. I couldn't rip 'em out of there soon enough. Then I read articles like "drag pipe blues" and gave that a shot. Much improved.

Then I discovered Big City Thunder Monster baffles. My bike came alive, MUCH better low-end, strong mid-range, and still howled way up into the high RPMs.

I eventually did more work on the bike and finally saved up enough to get a quality performance exhaust system--went with the Thunderheader (even though I still think it is the ugliest d**n pipe I ever seen) and yes, THAT was the ticket. But if a person likes the looks and sound of their drag pipes, or simply can't be spendin' big bugs for a quality system, BCTM IS The Ticket.
 

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Just study up a bit on backpressure and the difficulties a completely open/free exhaust system commonly creates. Drag pipes have no backpressure and as a result you will lose from 10-15% of fuel, etc. from the cylinders into the exhaust. A properly baffled exhaust will increase torque and backpressure and can be "tuned" to give you the best results for you. Also keep in mind that the O2 sensors will pick up too much fuel in the exhaust and the ECM will try to lean up a bit the mix. So with the initial fuel loss from the cylinders and than add the ECM leaning it up a bit... well, you can see the results... lean-hot-underpowered
 
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