torque specs

thanks. dont have the cash for a book at this time.

sherifflittle said:

thanks. dont have the cash for a book at this time.

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That's cool....being an older bike, you can score one on Ebay maybe after you get the bike back on the road.

yeah local shop sai he would do it for $300 including parts and labor. i think i can get a belt at work for nothing and then just have to get fluid and gaskets,so i could come out pretty cheap.

$300 !!! Pay the guy to do it for ya, IMO.
Without a manual as a guide you'll get lost if you've never done a belt R&R before.

someone answer me a question.... how can the MoCo spec a torque setting of BETWEEN 14-21 ft lbs? so....you can torque a bolt to 14, or almost DOUBLE that to 21 lbs? wtf?

I ask, because they say that you have to have a tolerance of less than .003 to do a gear drive conversion...but then put out a spec like that

sbaumann14 said:

someone answer me a question.... how can the MoCo spec a torque setting of BETWEEN 14-21 ft lbs? so....you can torque a bolt to 14, or almost DOUBLE that to 21 lbs? wtf?

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You do realize the difference between 14-21 ft lbs is minimal and a ratio so small on that type of fastener, that even doubling the low number, in most cases, you wouldn't do real any harm. You're given a wider range for torque ON NON-CRITICAL FASTENERS.

Critical fasteners have far less of a torque difference. Note compensator... 150-165. Only a 10% difference.

Inherently....torque values differ to some degree between different brand wrenches, wrench age, condition, bolt cleanliness and thread pitch condition.

Hence why a range is given. Stretch bolts have no range and head bolts even less.

ok...learn something new every day. Thanks!

sbaumann14 said:

I ask, because they say that you have to have a tolerance of less than .003 to do a gear drive conversion...but then put out a spec like that

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This isn't Harley's spec. it's S&S's spec.

SCHMIDTYS said:

This isn't Harley's spec. it's S&S's spec.

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Its also not a torque spec, rather a tolerance spec related to/for gear lash, as the drive gear I'd mounted to the crank and runs the rear cam.

In addition to what has been said about torque specs. By using the lower number of range on lets say a 90-100 ftlbs. During a check of those bolts if it does not move then your good to go. If it does move, you can go to upper range of spec with out damaging any thing. If your already at top range of torque spec there may be other issues if it continues loosen up. IMOP

Thanks for the class! Just posted a thread found a loose bolt inside primary. Wednesday will be tearing outer primary to inspect and clean

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ok here is an update. called the guy back and told him i was bringing the bike up to get it fixed and he said i was miss quoted on the price. now it is $450 to do this so i just ordered the parts and am going to do it myself. wish me luck lol soon ill be >>:bikerguy:

Hope you ordered a shop manual as well. If not there's a good chance you'll be paying the 450 plus what you've already spent. Just saying

I believe you will also need a couple special tools to do the job , the manual will list these also .

If you do not have the mechanical skill, I highly recommend you take it to a qualified mechanic. It not as easy as it seems. Good luck.

If you can't afford a manual.... you will be paying more than $300 to undo the damage you are about to create.... FYI... clutch nut, reverse thread... you're welcome.

well got it done today. it is pretty involved but ive got good mechanical skills and am somewhat patient lol. took it out and had to readjust the clutch,loosen the drive belt just a bit and adjust shift lever. but now onto other things like possibly mounting hard bags on the old heritage. thanks for all the help and tips guys.