Anyone have experience using magnets to trip traffic light sensors? I've heard about people attaching them to riding boots and/or bike frame. Before I do that I was hoping I could get some feedback about the pros and cons. Thanks.
I always pull up far enough to allow the cage behind me to get on the trigger behind me.
Also:
Florida allows a bike to run the light if it won't change after a couple of cycles.
Funny true Story.
Many years ago I had a Suzuki Katana. There was this one light on the way to work that would never trip. One morning I was sitting at the light at 6am and it wouldnt go green. So I proceeded. A cop just happened to be parked where he saw me and pulled me for 'running the red'. He was going to ticket me till I explained that I came to a full and complete stop. The law says nothing about 'waiting' for the light to turn green. He smiled and let me go.
Here's where its funny. I called the city and asked them to adjust the sensitivity of the sensors at that intersection, which they can do.
The guy asked me what kind of bike I rode, I told him to which he replied ' Buy a Harley, It will trip for a Harley' Then he hung up on me.
All I could do was laugh
I usually pull up as far as possible, too. But there isn't always a cage to set it off when needed and PA doesn't let you stop and go. I saw a video of someone using neodymium magnets to trip the sensors but thought they would also attract any metal pieces on the road. I'd hate to wind up with my left foot stuck to somebody's bumper.
I went to ACE Hardware and bought a round, chrome 90lb magnet and strapped it to the bottom of my chrome Oil cover (Street Glide) and it really does work. Cost? $12
I went to ACE Hardware and bought a round, chrome 90lb magnet and strapped it to the bottom of my chrome Oil cover (Street Glide) and it really does work. Cost? $12
I routinely run the light if they don't change down here (I have a reserve badge so they won't eff with me), but on the road, I at least let it cycle once before I go. I've only been challenged by LEO once on that and talked my way out of it with the excuse that it wouldn't cycle for the bike. Most of the trip lights I have encountered (except at I-10 and US HWY 57 which never responds) change for me on the Ultra. Back in the days of my old Hondas, they never changed.
Ive got a green light trigger HP on my bike. Seems to work good. Only 2 lights in town it wont trigger and those dont trigger half the time in the car either...
They aren't magnets but they do produce a tiny magnetic field. They work on the principle of induction which is rated in Henrys. At least that is what most signals use. My area I have seen what I assume to be microwave sensors popping up, they look like cameras.
I have some very powerful rare-earth magnets on the crash bars on my Dyna. There are places where they do work - places where I could not trip the light before they were installed. There are also lights were I can't get the sensors to trip no matter what I do.
On US 95, just north of Riggins, ID, there is a bridge crossing the Salmon River that is being renovated. It's a controlled one-way set up. The bike, even a Harley, won't trip the signal, and since it is a temporary setup, I don't know what controls it. What I did was pull up a bit and waved the car behind me to come a little closer. He tripped the signal. Then we all crossed.
These detectors are buried in or under the roadway. Inductive detector loops are the most common type. They are sensors buried in the road to detect the presence of traffic waiting at the light, and thus can reduce the time when a green signal is given to an empty road.
I have a badas$$ little rare earth magnet on the botom of my frame which affects this field and triggers the light like a piece of metal does. http://www.wikihow.com/Trigger-Green-Traffic-Lights
These detectors are buried in or under the roadway. Inductive detector loops are the most common type. They are sensors buried in the road to detect the presence of traffic waiting at the light, and thus can reduce the time when a green signal is given to an empty road.
I have a badas$$ little rare earth magnet on the botom of my frame which affects this field and triggers the light like a piece of metal does. How to Trigger Green Traffic Lights: 3 Steps (with Pictures)
How big is the magnet?
I have a few that are about the diameter of a quarter and about .187 thick and REAL STRONG.
Don't you need to be careful though of these super strong magnets around certain sensors and electronics on these bikes.
I always drop the kick stand on the road where they cut the sensor loop in the street. Just for a second or so, and it usually trips it. Tested that theory before, waited three or four cycles then did the kick stand thing. Tripped it right away. It gets some of the metal of the bike closer to the induction loop.
I've got one of the green lite triggers also, found it in the discount bin at some Indy shop, cost was about 5 bucks and it's about the size of a bic pen cap. Just stuck it the underside of the cross brace by my oil pan.So far here in wi it works most of the time, actually more times than not I suppose now that I think of it.
Most of the lights in MD now have these little camera looking deals mounted on the pole or guy wire. There is one I have to run when I leave work through the back gate. If a car pulls behind me it is still too far behind me to trigger it.
I was on my 883 back in 1992 and came up to a light and wanted to turn left from the turn lane. The light completely cycled twice for oncoming traffic and traffic from the sides but never for me. So, I decided on the next through light I would pull into the intersection and wait for a safe time and then turn and go. I didn't get 50 yards and was pulled over. The cop didn't care to listen so I said I would see him in court. I took that ticket to court and the judge asked why I was speeding. He was 90ish and this was night court. I told him It was for running a red light and that is more dangerous. He said it sure is, Sonny. Anyway, I explained the situation and told him motorcycles don't always trip the light. So he yelled for his sergeant and that guy confirmed my story. I got out of the ticket but not before playing the $20 court cost. But back to the cop. I got back on the bike and that was a sweet time for the battery to pop and leave me without. I had to call my father-in-law to bring me a new battery. That was before cell phones.
Local cops told us the sensors at controlled intersections are magnetic pickups that sense the vehicle metal. No need to have magnets on your vehicle to trip the sensors.
Inductive is magnetic just like the CKP on your bikes !
Funny there hasn't been a mention of this - ground straps ! Like the old cars used to have. Woven metal straps that drag on the ground under the vehicle. Mostly on the old cars and trucks with 6 volt electrical systems.
Bet that would trip the intersection signal.
That is true, the sensors are tripped when the vehicles magnetic field disrupts the magnetic field of the sensore wire.
The problem being is that most small bikes and such dont create a large enough magnetic field to trip the sensors when they are buried to deep or when they are adjusted to high.
Not trying to discredit anyone but there are 2 lights in town that are PIA for bikes and even small cars like the smart. They will not trip the censors, I have set at them.on a bike for over 3 minutes waiting and nothing. But hit them with my truck and its 10-15 secs and done i got a green turn arrow. I bought the green light thirgger HD and put 1 on each bike, ultra classic, and 2 GW trikes and now they trip just like my truck. There still is one in town that will only trip for a car or larger. But I just run that one after the 2 minutes if needed.
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