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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've seen a write-up on the True-Track stabilizer link for HD dressers in Born to Ride Magazine and in American Rider Magazine (April 2007).
Since I'm heavy, my bike has a lot of power and since it's lowered, I'm looking real hard at it to help my geometry and stabilize the swing arm.
Anyone used it yet?
http://www.true-track.com
 

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Jimaroo,

I've read mixed reviews, from it helped some to it helped alot. There is also the RideStr8 that is similar. Here is the link to that. http://www.ridestr8.com/ The general consensus on both these seems (to me) to be that it helps, but doesn't totally solve the issue.

There is something else that I've read good reviews on, and is alot less $ than those. It's the Sta-bo. The link is here. http://www.sta-bo.com/

2002 and up is cheaper (about $100). Pre-2002 is about $200. These are bushings that attach to the swingarm at the bushings. The downside is that you get more vibration, but that supposedly quiets down alot after 1000 - 1500 miles. Every comment I've read about these says it definitely tightens up the rear end.

I have an 03 Road Glide, and I've never had any front end wobble. I do occaisionally feel a little rear "wallow" in turns, but nothing scary. I am a pretty mellow rider.

I have the sta-bo's on my someday soon list.

HTH.

Ride on, ride well.

Doug

"I took the one less traveled by,
And that has made all the difference."
 

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I have a riding bud with a '97 Custom EGC with a 100" Rev-Tech and recently upgraded to a S&S 113" that had the tank slapper blues. He bought the tru-trak and found it helped but didn't eliminate as another post previously mentioned.

I told him about the old shade tree trick of using 2 8' flourescent light bulbs to align the front and rear wheels. He tried it and it worked and the problem went away.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
True-track installed

Well, I got 'er dun yesterday.
I made a 132 mile run from Tampa over to Mid Florida Cycle in Melbourne, FL to have my bike looked at.

Aligned the bike horizontally and vertically. It was pretty much on the nose.
Installed the true-track.
Dennis Mitchell (owner) took it for a test ride. It wasn't quite right.
He suspected (and found) low air-pressure, particularily in the rear tire.
Corrected the air pressure.

My handlebars were off and he "aligned" them. These are 1-1/4" chubby's. They are held in place with rubber mounts. Since they are wider, its not impossible to throw them off by lifting the bike up using them (like if it fell over, or in sand, etc.). He blocked the front wheel solid and pushed on the handlebars by hand - like you did with your Schwinn when you were 12.

Result. Perfect alignment mechanically and visually. Solid rear end - no wobble. But I had vibration (no worse than when I arrived there but still more than I should have had).

Cause: in 4,962 miles, with the big motor (Jim's 120 ci), the front rubber motor mount was TRASH. Completely ripped apart. I was warned when I went with the big motor to watch out for the front motor mount. Sure enough. There are cheap ones and better ones, evidently. He installed what he considered the best one in his experience, a H-D factory motor mount, although he had others in stock, too.

Vibration back to normal. True-track wasn't adding any vibration to the bike. It does subtract about 1/4" from my road clearance, and my bike is lowered, so I have to pay a little attention to speed bumps and getting my jack under it.

The combination of checking (& replacing) the front motor mount, correct alignment and true-track installation cured all my problems. The bike runs like it's on rails, fairing looks straight: it's all good. :dance

Look at your tire air pressure every 30 days or less. I didn't and it adds significantly to the handling (I found out). :bat

To Dennis Mitchell at Mid Florida Cycle in Melbourne: Thanks, man. You know your $tuff!
 

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I found Trutrack to be a big help w/rear steer on my 07FLTRI. I have to check tire pressure weekly and it is consistently down one half to 1 lb. PSI. Correct pressure in tires and tour shocks is key.
Uptown
 

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I found Trutrack to be a big help w/rear steer on my 07FLTRI. I have to check tire pressure weekly and it is consistently down one half to 1 lb. PSI. Correct pressure in tires and tour shocks is key.
Uptown
I keep a 300cf cylinder of Nitrogen in the garage and run it in all of my tires (cars, truck, bike, tractor, trailers). Very little pressure flucutuation due to due to temperature changes by the lack of moisture in the Nitrogen and the leak rate is nearly non-existant.
 

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Installed a Ridestr8 kit on one of my customer's RK's with a big 124" motor, and he is a very large man, something like Hagar or Obelix. This was only done after tire pressures were corrected, suspension was set-up properly, the ripped front motor mount replaced and the vertical and horizontal allignment corrected.
Its like a new bike he says - the way it should have been from day 1!

Truth be told - simple things like tire pressures should be checked weekly, same as suspension settings and pressures in them - they make a huge difference to handling and stability.
The thing to understand is that the amount of air in the tires is very little relative to cars/trucks etc, so the loss of the minutest quantity of air has a big affect on pressure.
 
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