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Discussion Starter #1
well i finally did it. ordered the tuner today. steve from fullsac is sending me the map he is using to go with my street glide. i will be installing andrews 54 cams in the near future(i hope anyway) will post results when it gets here and i install it.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
no one have an opinion positive or negative on the tts units? i cant wait to see how the fly by wire works with it, at least if i want full throtle wen i wack it open it will be 100% instead of 65% throtle opening.
 

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I just searched mastertune and there's a bunch of posts regarding fuel management systems there .
Hope that's some help .
 

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TTS Mastertune is as good as it gets. Not only are there more individual adjustments then any other tuner but the best part is that there are no extra electronics onboard. When you are done tuning your bike or changing the map, everything is disconnected and your ECM is the only thing calling the shots. The problem with the other tuners are that they have to stay on the bike creating more possible problems. By the way the TTS Mastertune is the Screaming Eagle Race Tuner. Harley went with another company and the SERT is now the TTS Mastertune.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
i understand they have added a few features now that tts is alone with it. suposed to be more user friendly. it will be here tomorow and i will install in my pc and if that dont take me to long to do i will download to bike. i have the map on my email now that steve wants me to start with so i wont have to search to find something close to my app. thanks for the replies guys
 

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i understand they have added a few features now that tts is alone with it. suposed to be more user friendly. it will be here tomorow and i will install in my pc and if that dont take me to long to do i will download to bike. i have the map on my email now that steve wants me to start with so i wont have to search to find something close to my app. thanks for the replies guys
you are correct. best tuner going at the present time.
no two motors are alike so a profession tune is still the way to go.
now you have the very best tool . use it to it's fullest.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
you are correct. best tuner going at the present time.
no two motors are alike so a profession tune is still the way to go.
now you have the very best tool . use it to it's fullest.
thanks for the info and i will definately be looking for a good dyno tuner, i will be installing new andrews cams in about 2 months wen my waranty goes out so i will more than likely go with the map steve sends me till then and let the tuner work off the one he sends with the cams. does this make any sense at all........
 

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When you get your TTS read the instructions yourself (don’t just depend on you tuner to to do it)

The reason is… there are “pre canned” tunes that you can select yourself depending on the changes you have made.

Here are a few examples (keep in mind these are old, yours will be new):

Exam 1:
Calibration #1: 2001 – 2004 Softail and 2004 – 2005 Dyna (Except FLSTSi or FLSTSi)
Configuration: 1450 SE A/C & Mufflers
File Name: 105HO103-C0.MT5, 127HO103-A0.MT5
Components:
• SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99B
• SE II Slip-Fit Mufflers P/N 80349-00A or 80258-99A

Exam 2:
Calibration #3: 2001 – 2004 Softail and 2004 – 2005 Dyna (Except FLSTSi or FLSTSi)
Configuration: 1550 Stage 2 with or without Performance Heads
File Name: 105HD019-C0.MT5, 127HD019-A0.MT5
Components:
• SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99B
• SE 1550 Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
• SE 1550 Flat Top Pistons P/N 22851-99A
• SE Performance Heads P/N 16952-99A or 16953-99A (or Stock Heads)
• SE 203 Cams P/N 25937-99B
• SE II Slip-Fit Mufflers P/N 80349-00A or 80258-99A

Then go back to the Cal sheet for the Cal I.D.

Then plug in the new Cal I.D. and bam, your done. This will give you 90% to 95% good tune. If you choose… you can have your tuner “tweek” it from there.

Yes you can do this yourself… and if you don’t like the results… download your old tune and no harm done.

This is basically a “key” so you can access your ECM program. Once downloaded to your bike it will only work on your bike. The program is linked to only your bike (to the Vin number) so don’t loose your key. You or your tuner can go in to review and/or change things any number of times.

Play with it on your own…you’re going to love it.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
thanks for info, i cant wait to get off work and get home to start playing with programer today. hopefully it wont take to long to install software and update so i can get something going in the bike
 

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When you get your TTS read the instructions yourself (don’t just depend on you tuner to to do it)

The reason is… there are “pre canned” tunes that you can select yourself depending on the changes you have made.

Here are a few examples (keep in mind these are old, yours will be new):

Exam 1:
Calibration #1: 2001 – 2004 Softail and 2004 – 2005 Dyna (Except FLSTSi or FLSTSi)
Configuration: 1450 SE A/C & Mufflers
File Name: 105HO103-C0.MT5, 127HO103-A0.MT5
Components:
• SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99B
• SE II Slip-Fit Mufflers P/N 80349-00A or 80258-99A

Exam 2:
Calibration #3: 2001 – 2004 Softail and 2004 – 2005 Dyna (Except FLSTSi or FLSTSi)
Configuration: 1550 Stage 2 with or without Performance Heads
File Name: 105HD019-C0.MT5, 127HD019-A0.MT5
Components:
• SE Air Cleaner and Breather Kit P/N 29440-99B
• SE 1550 Big Bore Cylinders P/N 16546-99 or 16549-99
• SE 1550 Flat Top Pistons P/N 22851-99A
• SE Performance Heads P/N 16952-99A or 16953-99A (or Stock Heads)
• SE 203 Cams P/N 25937-99B
• SE II Slip-Fit Mufflers P/N 80349-00A or 80258-99A

Then go back to the Cal sheet for the Cal I.D.

Then plug in the new Cal I.D. and bam, your done. This will give you 90% to 95% good tune. If you choose… you can have your tuner “tweek” it from there.

Yes you can do this yourself… and if you don’t like the results… download your old tune and no harm done.

This is basically a “key” so you can access your ECM program. Once downloaded to your bike it will only work on your bike. The program is linked to only your bike (to the Vin number) so don’t loose your key. You or your tuner can go in to review and/or change things any number of times.

Play with it on your own…you’re going to love it.


those cal's are outdated...mt 5.. not that they wont work. but TTS is up to mt 7 files now. there are a lot more options with the mt 7 files vs the mt 5 and 6 files.

I disagree with your 90-95% good tune theory.
canned maps are just a base to start with. even when they are a exact duplicate of the build they are not optimum. sure the bike will usually run better...sometimes it goes backwards.
example a stage two build ..pipes A/C and cams. on the dyno it usually gains 2 hp/ tq. over the stock ECM cal. after a dyno tune it gains another 10/10. but I have seen them go backwards with the canned map.
then the drivability......that's a whole other subject LOL.
No two motors are exactly the same as far as efficiency. to many variables. injector pulse width, head cc's. etc etc. so canned maps are just not universal.
 

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I were you I would of got the Thunder max Auto tune. It would of saved you alot of money in the long run with adding mod after mod. Just my two cents.
 

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I were you I would of got the Thunder max Auto tune. It would of saved you alot of money in the long run with adding mod after mod. Just my two cents.
:bash
If you spend the money for good mods why would you put a toy for a ECM tuner on it?
sorry I take them off. wanna buy a used one?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
ok, i have tried several different maps and the one steve sent me from fullsac and im going to leave his map in there till i change cams next month and get a laptop so i can run the V-TUNE mode on it. it runs very good and i am getting used to the tts tunner more and more. it is easier to use and change out maps than i thought it would be. cant wait to get cams and tweak on it some more. once i do cams and maybe the 107 kit i will spend the money on someone with a dyno to get the most out of it.
 

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:bash
If you spend the money for good mods why would you put a toy for a ECM tuner on it?
sorry I take them off. wanna buy a used one?
I agree with this statement (above)...

when you see a thunder max 50 and a thunder max (race only), you have to ask yourself why are there 2 seperate units? The TTS is one unit that will do it all.

strokerjlk,
I stated that these examples were old tunes. And I stand behind the 90% to 95% statement I made. I have yet have one go backwards.
yes I can get 5 to 8 hp more out of it, yes I can get a little better gas mileage out of it. Will it run hotter? yes... and don't change gas to less than 93 octane, or you will start to knock.

The can tunes are conservative, they are rich and over rich looses hp and torque... but also run cooler.
 

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6 one way, half a dozen the other. Again how does the tts mastertune exactly measure wide band settings on stock o2 sensors when they are narrow band? Please explain????? Also you can dyno all day perfecting a tune for high numbers, but I would think the MAIN important key would be that the AFR would be set properly. Isn't this why any of these products were made! As for as the thundermaxx I believe the reason there is two different models, one is EPA 50 state ceritified.

One thing, I have yet to see any of these products fail if they are properly mapped and installed correctly installed. Some fuel management systems just happen to be more user friendly.
 

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6 one way, half a dozen the other. Again how does the tts mastertune exactly measure wide band settings on stock o2 sensors when they are narrow band? Please explain????? Also you can dyno all day perfecting a tune for high numbers, but I would think the MAIN important key would be that the AFR would be set properly. Isn't this why any of these products were made! As for as the thundermaxx I believe the reason there is two different models, one is EPA 50 state ceritified.

One thing, I have yet to see any of these products fail if they are properly mapped and installed correctly installed. Some fuel management systems just happen to be more user friendly.
The stock narrow bands cant measure anything beyond 14.2 -15.4. that is the reason the v-tune function on tts has you set the afr cells to 14.6 (closed loop) I personally am not a fan of v-tune (another subject) but you are correct narrow bands cant measure anything other then 14.2-15.4 so you set the map to closed loop calibrate the ve's to a AFR of 14.6 and then take your open loop portions of the map back to there respected AFR settings.

cracker
I have seen them go backwards with just the canned map loaded. rare but it happens. they just need tuned is all. canned maps are just a base to start from. no two motors are the same so how can the canned map be optimum.
example did a stage 1 cvo 110 it went 80/100 with stock ECM went 82/102 with canned map went 96/118 when tuned correct.
 

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6 one way, half a dozen the other. Again how does the tts mastertune exactly measure wide band settings on stock o2 sensors when they are narrow band? Please explain????? Also you can dyno all day perfecting a tune for high numbers, but I would think the MAIN important key would be that the AFR would be set properly. Isn't this why any of these products were made! As for as the thundermaxx I believe the reason there is two different models, one is EPA 50 state ceritified.

One thing, I have yet to see any of these products fail if they are properly mapped and installed correctly installed. Some fuel management systems just happen to be more user friendly.
I believe most folks put too much into the whole wide band/narrow band O2 sensor thing. The fact is, ultimately it is a simple switching sensor used by the ECM to determine rich, or lean condition based pre-determined VE tables, and calibrations. An O2 sensor is just that, it senses O2 levels. Once at temperature it will generate a small amount of voltage based on the amount of oxygen in the exhaust. It cannot determine AFR( 14.2, 15.8 etc.) Granted, a wide band sensor is capable of producing voltages in an effective range of about .100 -.900 volts dc. This is nearly a 1 volt range. A narrow band sensor may only have a range of .3 - .4 volts. However, typically the desired AFR will be in the center of the voltage range as sensed by the ECM. That being said, wide or narrow does not matter. Once in closed loop, any voltage sensed by the ECM that is above the crossover point(center of the available volt range), will be considered a rich condition, which will result in a lean cammand from the ECM to the injectors(longer dwell). In turn, any voltage sensed below the crossover point will be seen as lean by the ECM, and a rich cammand will be sent. There are a mulitude of other factors that contribute to fuel mixture, but I hope this clears up the wide/narrow delema for you.
 

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It cannot determine AFR( 14.2, 15.8 etc
pretty much agree with your post it is a switching sensor. but it reads oxy between 14.2 15.4 it switches to keep it in this range just as you said. based on what closed loop bias is set at..... voltage applied to sensons. so while it isnt there to read afr alone it does measure oxy in order to switch.
 

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"fact is, ultimately it is a simple switching sensor used by the ECM to determine rich, or lean condition based pre-determined VE tables"

Technically this is not correct. Rich and lean are dependant on fuel control and switch point voltage. While VE is a function in calcualted fuel, it is ONLY one input to expected Air in the fuel calculation.

If VE are too far off, it is not possible to have closed loop control, but if you have the wrong injector constant, you also cannot have closed loop control. So VE's are an input to the Pulse width calculation, closed loop control is not based on VE! Rich lean is determined and controlled by FUEL CONTROL.
 
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