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Turn signal and brake light failure

5K views 6 replies 4 participants last post by  Bizoil72 
#1 ·
2008 Heritage Classic. On a pre ride check prior to Saturdays ride, my turn signals and brake light weren't working. I pulled the seats then removed and checked all fuses and grounds, nothing out of the ordinary, flipped the switch and everything was working. Put the seat back on and the turn signals and brake lights were inop again. Flipped the ignition switch a couple times and they were working. Long story short, there is a spot in my ignition switch where the turn signals and brake lights don't work but the bike will run. Slightly clock the switch either direction and all is well. Problem did not replicate throughout the 250 mile ride with a few stops. Clearly I need an ignition switch and I have a few questions.
  1. Is the switch serviceable, or replacement only?
  2. Is any programming required when replacing the switch?
  3. Can the original ignition lock tumbler be installed in the new switch to eliminate the additional key?
  4. I am thinking of changing the speedo to a tach equipped gauge while I have this area apart, has anyone had good/bad experience with the upgraded gauge?
  5. When upgrading this gauge which has an intergrated fuel gauge, will the tank mounted gauge continue to work?
Thanks in advance.
 
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#2 ·
What I have learned in the event anyone else has this problem. Ordered the switch from HD using my VIN and key code, about $130 and should arrive within 2 weeks and it comes without keys. I have opted not to purchase the tach as I don't really need it.
 
#4 ·
The internals of the switch are probably gummed up. It can be taken apart but use extreme caution as there are several springs and small parts that can get lost in a hurry. Once gone you buy a new switch. The dealer can order a new one with matching keys. You will need VIN number and proof you own the bike.
 
#5 ·
Just a follow-up in the event anyone can use this information. So the switch came in at the 7 day mark rather than 14, happy about that. Although I was told by the parts counter that it would come w/o keys, it came with 2, now I have 4 of the same key. This was a very simple job, took less than 1/2 hour. Simply remove on acorn nut holding the console, lift of console and support inverted (I used bungees), remove the electrical connection to the switch, remove four 1/4" bolts that hold the switch in. Reverse order for assembly.

I may have been a little quick on the draw to order a new switch. As @Rustyg stated above this switch is pretty easy to disassemble, and in my case, believe I will keep it as a spare. Mine was really "gunked" up inside and you can see the green oxidation mess that I have to clean yet.

To disassemble switch,
(photo 1) invert switch and remove c clip, keep light pressure on assembly to prevent it from coming apart.
(photo 2) invert again to avoid losing parts and carefully separate switch components.
(photo 3) There are 4 total springs and 3 "bridges" for parts, really a simple switch.
To reassemble,
Reverse above.
 

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#7 ·
Just a follow-up in the event anyone can use this information. So the switch came in at the 7 day mark rather than 14, happy about that. Although I was told by the parts counter that it would come w/o keys, it came with 2, now I have 4 of the same key. This was a very simple job, took less than 1/2 hour. Simply remove on acorn nut holding the console, lift of console and support inverted (I used bungees), remove the electrical connection to the switch, remove four 1/4" bolts that hold the switch in. Reverse order for assembly.

I may have been a little quick on the draw to order a new switch. As @Rustyg stated above this switch is pretty easy to disassemble, and in my case, believe I will keep it as a spare. Mine was really "gunked" up inside and you can see the green oxidation mess that I have to clean yet.

To disassemble switch,
(photo 1) invert switch and remove c clip, keep light pressure on assembly to prevent it from coming apart.
(photo 2) invert again to avoid losing parts and carefully separate switch components.
(photo 3) There are 4 total springs and 3 "bridges" for parts, really a simple switch.
To reassemble,
Reverse above.
Sorry to resurrect this ancient thread, but I have to say thanks because you saved me a lot of time and headaches. I have an 07 Lowrider on which I moved the switch from the neck to a Fat Bob tank console. After about a year with no problems, just had your same issue pop up. Working on switch now. Thanks for posting your fix.
 
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