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Wanting to build a free standing low level deck in my backyard. Since my father was a carpenter I would normally ask his advice but since he is no longer with us I'm reaching out to here. I've got a basic idea on what I want to do and how I'm gonna go about doing it but I need some advice. I want to build a 12ft by 12 ft free standing low level deck and put on a roof over it to keep rain/sun away. I'm gonna use block piers for the base that stand 8" off the ground. I just need to know how far apart to place them. I'm not sure if I need to put them 2ft or 4 ft. Also on the base shout the cross beams be made of 2x4 or 2x6? Should roof should have metal shingles (I was told that they have a sealant that would keep it from getting to hot or use plastic, wood, etc? Any advice would help. Thanks, Jimmy
 

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Wanting to build a free standing low level deck in my backyard. Since my father was a carpenter I would normally ask his advice but since he is no longer with us I'm reaching out to here. I've got a basic idea on what I want to do and how I'm gonna go about doing it but I need some advice. I want to build a 12ft by 12 ft free standing low level deck and put on a roof over it to keep rain/sun away. I'm gonna use block piers for the base that stand 8" off the ground. I just need to know how far apart to place them. I'm not sure if I need to put them 2ft or 4 ft. Also on the base shout the cross beams be made of 2x4 or 2x6? Should roof should have metal shingles (I was told that they have a sealant that would keep it from getting to hot or use plastic, wood, etc? Any advice would help. Thanks, Jimmy
The base blocks should be 4' apart for a good look at your deck dimensions, although 6' or 8' will work. Cross beams should be 24" apart.

Use 2x6 for the cross members, and 2x10 for the outer skirt to give it a flush look.

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Discussion Starter #3
thanks, Nipps....
 

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Gypsy on Parade
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If you check out the books in lowes or home depot, they have several with various plans for decks and gazebos. You could probably just thumb through one and get plenty of ideas to adapt to your specific need.
 

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Will you be subject to any specific building codes or inspections ?

Around here, if it has a roof it must be anchored in the ground some way.
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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Will you be subject to any specific building codes or inspections ?

Around here, if it has a roof it must be anchored in the ground some way.
Id use the blocks for everything except the four corners. Definately with a roof you want some way of keeping it down if the wind get up.. stick the four corners down about 2 foot and pour cement and that should hold it down.

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Yeah, up here we have to pour "frost footings" to a depth of 40 inches.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I emailed the Code Enforcer for the City of Moore Building Codes. Hopefully he will contact me and let me know.
 

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For my footings, I dug down below the frost line, which here is about 32" a few were deeper than that, with a post hole digger. Then I made the bottom a little bigger by widening out the sides. Next, I placed 6" concrete tub forms in my holes. I cut most of these in half they were four ft tube forms from Lowes. I had the tops of the tube forms as level to each other as possible about an inch below the height of my planed beam height.


After the concrete set up for about an hour I put a "J" bolt in the top of the tube form in the center. The bracket for my beam is held off the concrete by an inch., and is held in place by the "J" bolt with a nut and washer. I used a Stainless Steel nut and washer, but you would not have to. The bracket allows water to drain out from under the beam and the beam does not rest on the concrete either this way.


Some math here. From house to the top of deck, 7"
minus the decking 1¼
minus the joist 9 ⅜
minus the beam 11 ⅜
= the bottom of the beam, or the top of the base of the bracket
minus 1" = the top of the footing.


Depending on the joist size and the beam size the numbers of course will vary.
A souble 2X8 will support 6'
A double 2X10 will support a span of 8'
A souble 2X12 will support a span of 10'


I used 2X12 beams and 2X10's joist. One of my beams is a 4X6 because I did not have room height wise to get any lower for the bottom section of the deck. But according to the building inspector the 4x6 will also carry the load if my footings were not more than 4' on center... so, I had to add an extra footing or two.

Hope this helps and is easy to figure out. You might just Google deck plans or footings too.




For my footings, I dug down below the frost line, which here is about 32" a few were deeper than that, with a post hole digger. Then I made the bottom a little bigger by widening out the sides. Next, I placed 6" concrete tub forms in my holes. I cut most of these in half they were four ft tube forms from Lowes. I had the tops of the tube forms as level to each other as possible about an inch below the height of my planed beam height.


After the concrete set up for about an hour I put a "J" bolt in the top of the tube form in the center. The bracket for my beam is held off the concrete by an inch., and is held in place by the "J" bolt with a nut and washer. I used a Stainless Steel nut and washer, but you would not have to. The bracket allows water to drain out from under the beam and the beam does not rest on the concrete either this way.


Some math here. From house to the top of deck, 7"
minus the decking 1¼
minus the joist 9 ⅜
minus the beam 11 ⅜
= the bottom of the beam, or the top of the base of the bracket
minus 1" = the top of the footing.


Depending on the joist size and the beam size the numbers of course will vary.
A souble 2X8 will support 6'
A double 2X10 will support a span of 8'
A souble 2X12 will support a span of 10'


I used 2X12 beams and 2X10's joist. One of my beams is a 4X6 because I did not have room height wise to get any lower for the bottom section of the deck. But according to the building inspector the 4x6 will also carry the load if my footings were not more than 4' on center... so, I had to add an extra footing or two.

Hope this helps and is easy to figure out. You might just Google deck plans or footings too.
 

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For my footings, I dug down below the frost line, which here is about 32" a few were deeper than that, with a post hole digger. Then I made the bottom a little bigger by widening out the sides. Next, I placed 6" concrete tub forms in my holes. I cut most of these in half they were four ft tube forms from Lowes. I had the tops of the tube forms as level to each other as possible about an inch below the height of my planed beam height.


After the concrete set up for about an hour I put a "J" bolt in the top of the tube form in the center. The bracket for my beam is held off the concrete by an inch., and is held in place by the "J" bolt with a nut and washer. I used a Stainless Steel nut and washer, but you would not have to. The bracket allows water to drain out from under the beam and the beam does not rest on the concrete either this way.


Some math here. From house to the top of deck, 7"
minus the decking 1¼
minus the joist 9 ⅜
minus the beam 11 ⅜
= the bottom of the beam, or the top of the base of the bracket
minus 1" = the top of the footing.


Depending on the joist size and the beam size the numbers of course will vary.
A souble 2X8 will support 6'
A double 2X10 will support a span of 8'
A souble 2X12 will support a span of 10'


I used 2X12 beams and 2X10's joist. One of my beams is a 4X6 because I did not have room height wise to get any lower for the bottom section of the deck. But according to the building inspector the 4x6 will also carry the load if my footings were not more than 4' on center... so, I had to add an extra footing or two.

Hope this helps and is easy to figure out. You might just Google deck plans or footings too.




For my footings, I dug down below the frost line, which here is about 32" a few were deeper than that, with a post hole digger. Then I made the bottom a little bigger by widening out the sides. Next, I placed 6" concrete tub forms in my holes. I cut most of these in half they were four ft tube forms from Lowes. I had the tops of the tube forms as level to each other as possible about an inch below the height of my planed beam height.


After the concrete set up for about an hour I put a "J" bolt in the top of the tube form in the center. The bracket for my beam is held off the concrete by an inch., and is held in place by the "J" bolt with a nut and washer. I used a Stainless Steel nut and washer, but you would not have to. The bracket allows water to drain out from under the beam and the beam does not rest on the concrete either this way.


Some math here. From house to the top of deck, 7"
minus the decking 1¼
minus the joist 9 ⅜
minus the beam 11 ⅜
= the bottom of the beam, or the top of the base of the bracket
minus 1" = the top of the footing.


Depending on the joist size and the beam size the numbers of course will vary.
A souble 2X8 will support 6'
A double 2X10 will support a span of 8'
A souble 2X12 will support a span of 10'


I used 2X12 beams and 2X10's joist. One of my beams is a 4X6 because I did not have room height wise to get any lower for the bottom section of the deck. But according to the building inspector the 4x6 will also carry the load if my footings were not more than 4' on center... so, I had to add an extra footing or two.

Hope this helps and is easy to figure out. You might just Google deck plans or footings too.

Sorry Bro, what the heck is Souble??? Did you mean Single???
If yes, how can a single 2x12 support a 10' span where a double 2x8 can only support a 8' span??? Doesn't make sense to me...
Not trying to slam, only trying to understand... Thanks!!
 

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Fat Guy on the Ultra
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Sorry Bro, what the heck is Souble??? Did you mean Single???
If yes, how can a single 2x12 support a 10' span where a double 2x8 can only support a 8' span??? Doesn't make sense to me...
Not trying to slam, only trying to understand... Thanks!!
I think he ment double. As the s and d key are beside each other
Proabably just fat figured it.

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