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Wow that's a sweet ride. The color is awesome!
 

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I ordered some of those 'chrome' plastic bolt cover things for the RatRod's engine case. A few had fallen off and some were jacked up. Looks all good now.
 

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Oh, I forgot one. I took the exhaust wrap off the pipes from the '05 Sporty that the PO had put on. I found a new set of the stock type chrome covers that were removed from a 2017 1200C and the front cover fit perfect, but the rear one was off a tad. Had to do a little cutting but came out good enough. The chrome was almost perfect and it was $40 for the whole set including the stock muffler covers and clamps, that I will just store for now. I need to post a pic of the bike. It looks so different from the day I got it. I wasn't really a chrome lover but man this looks so good like that.
 

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weird member
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Well, it was relatively warm today (high was 78°), so I decided to put her through the paces a bit because I knew she'd get good and hot.

Got out on the highway, 65/70 mph in 5th gear and just laid on the throttle. Almost no spark knock, but still a little. Before, as soon as I touched the throttle it would knock like a tiny washer or something was bouncing in there, but now, it gets going and on occasion you can hear a "tink........... tink tink................ tink.......". So that's almost bang on, might need one washer under the needle clip, not sure.

Low end, spark knock can still be induced without lugging, but it's a lot less than before. Not sure if I should bump the slow up from the 45 to a 46 or not and just run the a/f in a bit (a/f mixture screw is already either 3 or 3.5 turns out).

Acceleration is so much smoother now, and the idle hang today was still only a maximum of ≈1200 rpm for half a second (rather than 1400 for 1-2 seconds).

Swung by and scheduled another dyno run, I go in Friday morning. I want to talk to the dyno guy that ran it last time, hopefully he's working, get his opinion on it based on what's going on, because he was bang on with the suggestions after the last run. Just getting into ultra-fine tuning. She's so close to perfect now that she's getting arrogant, pushing me to go wild.

Also, filled up today. I filled up immediately after the jetting changes. Previously, I was getting 37 mpg in the city. Today, first half-tank fill up on the new jetting and I got 40.7 mpg (same city riding).

I'm definitely excited to see what the numbers are now.
 

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old scoot coot
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Looking good Chief!
that is one good lookin power plant! seat those rings the old school way. they say ya don't need to but the worst thing you can do with a fresh engine is baby it.watch out for whip lash! and watch them disappear in your rear view mirror. nice.
 

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old scoot coot
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Oh, I forgot one. I took the exhaust wrap off the pipes from the '05 Sporty that the PO had put on. I found a new set of the stock type chrome covers that were removed from a 2017 1200C and the front cover fit perfect, but the rear one was off a tad. Had to do a little cutting but came out good enough. The chrome was almost perfect and it was $40 for the whole set including the stock muffler covers and clamps, that I will just store for now. I need to post a pic of the bike. It looks so different from the day I got it. I wasn't really a chrome lover but man this looks so good like that.
jeff and i are both chrome whores!
 

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old scoot coot
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went down to shop this morning. still very cold here. i finished stripping flash down for the heart transplant. when i removed the came support plate, not to my surprise, the cam bearing was the ole cheapy with a cage. i looked on line the other nite and saw jim's has a cam brg remover and installer that works on both the m'8s and twin cams so i thought i was good to go.on my otc the extractor and driver looked like they would work ok. but the face plate would not bolt up. i could only get one ancor bolt in that would let the extractor and driver center up. this was the cam tool that had the extractor lip so thin i had to use the mig to build it up and grind back to finish. i was not really happy about that but a tool doesn't have to be pretty to work. i aint pretty any more either but i still work. i could't bore a hole in the face plate, it had been through heat treat also. so i blew a hole with the good ole gas rig. ancient tecnology but sometimes low tech is called for. now i have a really ugly multipurpose tool that works fine. there is even another extractor and driver in there that fits some of the early stuff. anyway the emperor has no clothes. waiting for parts.
 

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old scoot coot
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Well, all I gotta do is send in a picture. I may apply just for the hell of it, but if shooting is going to interfere with my summer trip... well, then I just wouldn't do it. Who knows, we'll see.

Actually, I've been an extra in a movie once before, some crap zombie movie. You know how there's bad B films right? This is more like, bad D film. One tiny little scene, and I am embarrassed for everyone involved. Hopefully this "biker movie" wouldn't be nearly as bad...
ha, kyle is a movie star we need autographed 8x10 black and white glossy photos please.
 

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I got some parts and pieces in the mail today.
 

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I'm still waiting on Vee Twin Performance to do the lifter bore, cylinders and the crank. I'll be ready when they are done. I can put the pan back on today, as the gasket is now here.
 

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old scoot coot
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2,876 Posts
  1. 🤠no machine work, just waiting for parts. my adjustable push rods and lifter cuffs came yesterday. murphy's law of arrival, ha. hopefully tomorrow cam bearing will show up and gaskets and seals as well. also hoping my hd parts will show at b'ville will show tomorrow also. he said 10 days to two weeks on the service manual. ill have to dry lab the job without that. 🤠 i piddled in shop a little this morning. i moved the throttle body out of the way for reassenbly. i made a 1/4 'x20 thd chaser out of a bolt and chased all 21 bolt holes common the the cam chest. they were so plugged up with that goo hd used as thd locker removing bolts was difficult. the rushrod base bolts were nearly welded in with the stuff. i was only able to run the thd chaser in by hand on only one of the twenty one holes. i then wire brushed the bolts so they can be run by hand now. i suspect tthat cleaning them up is the only way to get to honest torque wrench specs. picked up a tube of red lock tight for cam gear and crank gear reassemly. i still had some left in an old tube probably at least 20 years old. it may still be ok but it went in the trash anyway. i couldn't find a cam, crank gear locking tool listed for the m8. the one i used on the twin cam camchest overhaul fits with gears, and chain laying in the bench. it will require some trimming to work with the gears in place. if i'm careful it might still work on a twin cam. if my modified face plate will hold with only two bolts in it whien i push the cam bearing in i'm "in like flynn". (that guy had an interesting life). the movie star part may have been the most mundane. the machined hole for the bearing has a lip at the back. i measured it and the bore is deeper than the width of the bearing so no danger of driving the bearing deep enough to send chards of the lip into the crankcase. lip serves no purpose. it was bored clear through the case on the twin cam. probably a small mistake on machine programming having no adverse consequences. im rambling a byproduct of piddling.good evening all ye saddle tramps, motorsickle saddles of course. 001.jpg
 

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Today i turned her Sportster around to make enough room to get between the bikes.

Then i decided to take a look at that problem i had with the "Media Compartment".. It gave up staying shut and tried to toss my cellphone during the last ride. The latch is working? But the door closes crooked. Wont stay shut, even empty...

Removed the passing lights, windshield, front faring and the radio support bracket.. All to get to just one screw.:oops:
Once i got the media compartment removed from the Inner Faring, the problem was easily spotted.. The inboard hinge arm had broken. I priced a replacement from my dealership $135. :whistle: I decided to try ye ole' "stitches in a bottle" (super-glue). I figure at worst case i will have to pull it again. It seems to be holding just fine! :p Thanks to that very convenient spring applying pressure on that arm. We will wait and see if it holds...

I cleaned up all the dirt and grime that was hidden under the faring and got it all back together. Then decided to give her a well needed bubble bath. Got everything all bright and shinny again.
781917


I decided to add this pic because I am impressed how well these products perform! That S100 just took off 6 years of grey from this motor (y)
 

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old scoot coot
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2,876 Posts
Today i turned her Sportster around to make enough room to get between the bikes.

Then i decided to take a look at that problem i had with the "Media Compartment".. It gave up staying shut and tried to toss my cellphone during the last ride. The latch is working? But the door closes crooked. Wont stay shut, even empty...

Removed the passing lights, windshield, front faring and the radio support bracket.. All to get to just one screw.:oops:
Once i got the media compartment removed from the Inner Faring, the problem was easily spotted.. The inboard hinge arm had broken. I priced a replacement from my dealership $135. :whistle: I decided to try ye ole' "stitches in a bottle" (super-glue). I figure at worst case i will have to pull it again. It seems to be holding just fine! :p Thanks to that very convenient spring applying pressure on that arm. We will wait and see if it holds...

I cleaned up all the dirt and grime that was hidden under the faring and got it all back together. Then decided to give her a well needed bubble bath. Got everything all bright and shinny again. ha, cyanoacrylate the shop medical emergency kit staple. usually if that stuff holds initally it is welded. i'd bet it is a permanent fix. and the s100 is in the top ten shop supply list. looking good and ready for day and road trips! 🆒 View attachment 781917

I decided to add this pic because I am impressed how well these products perform! That S100 just took off 6 years of grey from this motor (y)
 

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Got the Señora back yesterday. New primary chain and Baker adjustable tensioner. The spring loaded tensioner was bottoming out making a clanking noise at idle. Not any more!

Just got 5” of snow last night so it’ll be a bit before I can ride her again, but the 20 miles I got yesterday home from the shop we’re a pleasure.
 

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Well, riding around yesterday, I notice 3/4 to WOT there's no knock, but between 1/2 and 3/4 there is a little. Still unsure if the 45 slow jet is enough or if it really should be a 46, gave 1/4 turn out more to the a/f mixture screw yesterday but it didn't seem to have any effect at all, about to go stick one shim washer under the needle clip. Then, gonna go for a ride.

The knock wasn't bad, just like a "tick.... tick tick... tick..." and I am definitely not lugging it, I mean it was at almost 3K rpm when I hit heavy on the throttle.

I think the 195 main is dead on. But, I want to do this adjustment today because my dyno run is tomorrow morning.

Dogs were flipping their chit a second ago, some sales guy at the door with package of toilet paper in his arm, it's raining and wet outside. Didn't answer the door, I have to poop anyway (heh, ironic), he can just get wet if he wants to ignore my "no solicitation" sign. I get that it's his job to go door to door selling, but that's why I have a sign: I'm not interested, I shouldn't have to open the door and say I am not interested, just respect the sign.

EDIT:
OK, all I did was a single shim under the clip, and then the idle was up pretty significantly, so I guess that single shim under it brings it up enough it's pulling from gas the main jet at idle? Readjusted the idle back to about 1000 in a parking lot.

It's wet so, I am not going to go really test it, I'll see what it does tomorrow and what the AFR shows before I decide to take the shim back out and whether or not to order a 46 slow jet. Nobody has a CVP 46 in stock anywhere (and their site claims they won't have any until November), though there are other brands of jets but, some of them have mixed reviews (Cycle Pro).

But, the transition and acceleration seems pretty good with it warmed up. Before the shim change, it was having issues cold, like it would sputter a little, bit like it was running out of gas when I am cruising at 2K-2200 rpm, but that goes away after about 3-4 miles and it runs smooth.

I'm thinking I might need to take that shim back out, bump the slow to a 46, and then really pay attention to the throttle position when testing, rather than the rpms.

With all of this, the float is adjusted so that, at whatever the angle is (15-23° or something like that), the seam on the float is exactly parallel with the base of the carb body, which is within and right near the measurement spec for float height.

I'm also wondering if the needle jet got changed or something by the previous owner (or rather, "Killer Carbs" in California where he sent it to be modified). It didn't have an adjustable needle, a totally different emulsion/jet tube and I don't remember even seeing a name stamped on the jets.

But this level of carb adjustment is beyond my skills. I know like, if I put a bigger pilot that it will richen the idle and 0-1/8 or 1/4 throttle, but I don't know by how much, like I dunno how to tell if the pilot needs a bump up or if the a/f needs tweaking (other than if tweaking the a/f or going way out on it)
 

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Well, I lied... the rain/drizzle had stopped long enough for this road to get dry, so I did test it a bit.

Womped it when I was at about 3K rpm (about 50 in 4th gear), 1/2-3/4 throttle and then 3/4 to WOT, no knock but 3/4 to WOT was a bit rough and kind of slugging, so I took the shim back out.

While I had the carb off just now, confirmed my a/f mixture screw is 3.5 turns out, so I think it does need a 46 pilot, and the 195 main with the needle on the second leanest notch no shims is right. Carb is back together and back on, soon as I finish dinner, need to readjust cables and put the enrichner knob back, warm it back up to re-set the idle so it's good to go for tomorrow morning.
 
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