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Kaninam, at the pace we were going, I can't believe I didn't drag floorboards once! I tracked Friday and Saturday on Rever, it shows the speeds we were running, and I don't think we ever hit less than 20 over what the corner signs said. Brian's header on the right handers couldn't slide a piece of paper between it and the pavement a few times I bet, but never saw sparks from it.
 

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weird member
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Well, I submitted my IB application last night, then I cleaned up the catch can and cleaned up the right side of the bike, also added 8oz of oil. Then I tore off trying to beat the rain this afternoon, but that didn't happen, had to turn back. Guess I need to wait until tomorrow to actually get out and get her all warmed up properly to check my oil level.

In the meantime, I ordered a new shift linkage with heim joints (well, one heim joint and one ball end) from Drag Specialties. There's nothing wrong with my existing shift linkage, it's just ugly. I was using it because it came from my old bike and had a chrome trim piece that looked nice. Anyway, months ago, one of the parts that held the trim piece ended up coming off somewhere, lost so I just took the trim piece off.

I had to go run errands with the cage, but I suppose when I get back, I need to properly clean up the bike. Not sure if I will though, my shoulders/upper-back are sore as hell. I suppose I could also start working on a better rain cap for that thing. Though if I can't make it look good, I may just forego the can and run a longer line to a more traditional filter end hanging out the bottom of the bike.
 

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1998 Harley Davidson FXDL low rider
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On my bike 98 FXDL worn shifter shaft of lever, bit of a problem so loose hard to find neutral, I knew that when bought it took out stripped hex 1/4 bought new hardened bolt, ran 1609 + Real loose, on 98 almost 2" maybe in a buried area between engine tran and everything else 😆 going to be crazy job dremel not going to work, have a few novel ideas I send pic of a $235 part that may save me or I wreck things doing it ck better lever and u will get it wish me maniac luck its a small area to work in
796291
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1998 Harley Davidson FXDL low rider
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71 Posts
And it needs to. Be cut off in 2 places to get it off put new one on, new one on it fin tight if I had trans or primary leaks I just take em off do it all, risk vs reward, its always that
 

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Try'n to behave
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6,253 Posts
Finished putting the primary back in place. New SE compensator (to include a new rotor), new Hayden chain tensioner, new inner clutch hub and basket, new clutch hub bearing and main shaft bearing, new seals all around, 45 oz of ATF 4. Floor boards and shift levers back in place.

Also re-installed the gas tank but dumped some fuel on myself so I stopped for a little bit because the fumes were bothering my eyes.
 

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old scoot coot
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Kaninam, at the pace we were going, I can't believe I didn't drag floorboards once! I tracked Friday and Saturday on Rever, it shows the speeds we were running, and I don't think we ever hit less than 20 over what the corner signs said. Brian's header on the right handers couldn't slide a piece of paper between it and the pavement a few times I bet, but never saw sparks from it.
looked like a cutting torch quickly following the line through a difficult medium.
 

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On my bike 98 FXDL worn shifter shaft of lever, bit of a problem so loose hard to find neutral, I knew that when bought it took out stripped hex 1/4 bought new hardened bolt, ran 1609 + Real loose, on 98 almost 2" maybe in a buried area between engine tran and everything else 😆 going to be crazy job dremel not going to work, have a few novel ideas I send pic of a $235 part that may save me or I wreck things doing it ck better lever and u will get it wish me maniac luck its a small area to work in View attachment 796291 View attachment 796291 View attachment 796292
And it needs to. Be cut off in 2 places to get it off put new one on, new one on it fin tight if I had trans or primary leaks I just take em off do it all, risk vs reward, its always that
Wow $235 bucks! That shift leg looks too nice to hide in that tight space! Looks like a quality chunk of hardware!
Cutting the old link out in 2X places surely sounds risky... Would it be possible to run a long drill into the head of the old allen bolt? Perhaps a lefty (if you can find a long enough one or, use a drill extension.) To get the old bolt out.
Making the 2nd cut is quite "High Risk" as i am sure you are evaluating that! Need a lo-ong azz dremmel mandrill with a tiny wheel, along with nerves of steel. Might want to ask a Master Dentist or a friendly Surgeon for some help with this one!

I know that I'm the "Go-To Guy" at work, when it comes to tight dremel work, and anything threaded. (44 years experience as a aircraft mechanic / machinist) I have some experience with "hard to get to trimming." That said, I would be quite inclined to pull the primaries off. In order to fix that. One slip of the cutter and the cost of pulling the inner primary, just doubled! (Besides it will give you a great opportunity to inspect the Compensator, Rotor, Stator and Clutch pack.)
Best of luck with this challenge!
Please keep us informed as you progress.
 

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I would also pull the primary. It's way, WAY less work to just pull the primary and then pull the thing off. If you're careful, you may not even need to replace the seals.

You'll spend 1/2 the time tearing the primary down and putting it back as you would trying to cut the old shifter pawl out, and it will be 1,000% easier.
 

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Its always nice to improve the ride, nice AK
Especially if I'm going to keep this bike for a long time.my daughter is 3 maybe I'll give it to her when she's of age but I'm sure mom won't like that....lol

Sent from my Pixel 3a XL using Tapatalk
 

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1998 Harley Davidson FXDL low rider
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71 Posts
My plan is not to dremel as the bounce factor hitting things is high, I already replaced the bolt and tightened didnt last long, so I can get that out lever will roll so far and hit mid control inner bracket. So that needs to be cut off to roll lever to be 180 oposite the pinch where it tightens, the didipline is cut there it falls in halfs therfore removable, my thought is long drill bit make holes in a line enlarge with bit sizes up then split it, my main concern is what you all already know dont hit rear drive belt #1, 2 don't hit anything else. On some bikes you can slide the lever off and your installed and done in short order. Mine will not. I will say its expensive but not as expensive and time consuming as pulling trans and replacing shaft and putting on new lever, one made of god knows what to wear out again, it is totally machined piece v high quality stainless and when tightened I doubt it will ever move again, guy even engraved a number # 135 which to me is nice that the man took pride in his work, an ethic lost on many in todays world. Appreciate all the advice good people on this forum hope u all well and riding AK
 

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1998 Harley Davidson FXDL low rider
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My thought was also, if anyone else had similar problem knowing this piece exists might help, and in the cases of certain models the lever would slide off its 20 min job or less, its expensive but I don't mind paying for quality, took alot of research just to find this piece, thought I would pass it along.
 

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I gave her a quick wash down to clean off the weekend. She's not showroom level clean, but nobody would kick her out of the prom either.
PXL_20210609_234125612.jpg PXL_20210609_234202152.jpg
 

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old scoot coot
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busy day yesterday. i took my friend who has pancreatic cancer to coin shop in indy, he bought some silver then to lunch for his favorite. then to airport to test hop an ultralight for roger. went back out on fury yesterday evening to get the approach numbers worked out for him. got a riding in to and from airport. riding solo today. don't know where yet. have a great day all.
 

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Still waiting on a tire. MIGHT be coming off back order tomorrow. My buddy who is shopping saw a 2015 RG CVO with 50kmiles on it yesterday. They have it for a good price (18k.) Rode it and he really likes it. I told him I thought he should pass, that with the 22's coming out in Aug it would be 7 model years old with a lot of miles. Sounds like he is talking himself into it. Who knows, might be a good one, I think a better one will come along, but... It would be his bike.
 

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Road Junkie
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Still waiting on a tire. MIGHT be coming off back order tomorrow. My buddy who is shopping saw a 2015 RG CVO with 50kmiles on it yesterday. They have it for a good price (18k.) Rode it and he really likes it. I told him I thought he should pass, that with the 22's coming out in Aug it would be 7 model years old with a lot of miles. Sounds like he is talking himself into it. Who knows, might be a good one, I think a better one will come along, but... It would be his bike.
Tell him to find out if the lifters have been replaced and if the front forks have been rebuilt. Both are very necessary maintenance items on the 2015-16 CVO Road Glide Ultra. The lifters should have been done around 30K as preventative maintenance, along with upgrading the inner cam bearing. If it's not known whether the work was done, I would pass.

This coming from someone who owns that year/model.
 

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Well, I went to my local dealer to see if the TSM I ordered finally came in, and it had not (was supposed to arrive at the end of April, then it was mid-May, now it's the end of June...).

Decided to look at boots while I was there and they have one that's extremely similar to my current boots (Thurmond) that they quit making. They're called "Dipstick" and are made by Wolverine (which is who I think also made the "Thurmond" for HD). I'm considering buying a pair, they even have wide-widths available online... but oil resistant outsole, waterproof all just like my current boots. I need to try a pair on and see how they feel. The ankle area feels a little more substantial too.
 
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