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I have a 2012 ultra classic with a white corrosion on all of my case bolts and even transmission cover bolts. The dealers seem to be at a loss as to why it has appeared or even how to clean them. I have tried baking soda, vinegar, and soap and water. Nothing works. Open for suggestions and all help appreciated
 

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Salt reacting with the zinc coating on the bolts. Resulting in white rust. Don't ride on salty Roads . Google, white rust.
 

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What Robert9999 said. Really surprised your local dealer is not offering any advice. Im sure they have seen this before.

Be good if you go to New Members thread and introduce yourself.
 

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It's normal corrosion of the plating as described above. Best cure is to replace the whole lot with stainless steel and use proper allen-head bolts instead of those horrible Torx devices. That same corrosion is happening to the whole bolt so rarely-if-ever loosened bolts get seized, then the torx head tears before the bolt gives way and you have to resort to drilling the things out.
 

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I {Heart} Hookers.
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It's normal corrosion of the plating as described above. Best cure is to replace the whole lot with stainless steel and use proper allen-head bolts instead of those horrible Torx devices. That same corrosion is happening to the whole bolt so rarely-if-ever loosened bolts get seized, then the torx head tears before the bolt gives way and you have to resort to drilling the things out.
Thought about mentioning same thing. Have you ever tried using Permatex Copper Coat along entire shank of the bolt? Works very well against salt air we get in our fog here. Can be a hindrance if bolt requires Loctite, have to get creative.
 

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USMC
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I live on a island surrounded by salt water, I've seen PVC pipe rust out (joking)

The best cure for the white rust is to wash the bike very well in detergent and lot and lots of fresh water, then wash all non painted parts in a product called salt away, it can me found in Boating supply catalogs such as West Marine.
After the saltaway shoot the dry metal with Corrosion X.
Repeat this every 3 mos, or when ever you start seeing a problem again.

Trust me on this.
 

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Other things that can cause corrosion; parking in an area with lead acid (wet) batteries being charges, swimming pool chlorine tablets or liquid, various cleaning supplies.
 

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Thought about mentioning same thing. Have you ever tried using Permatex Copper Coat along entire shank of the bolt? Works very well against salt air we get in our fog here. Can be a hindrance if bolt requires Loctite, have to get creative.
Ah - been here before and I know many didn't agree last time. I'm with you on the copper grease; even after a few years of our wet climate and salty winter roads everything comes apart easily when required.
Personally I don't use Loctite so that's not a problem. I was taught to spanner (sorry- wrench) things using a box spanner with a new, correct size, tommy-bar (no idea what you call that your side of the ditch!). When the bar bent you'd reached the right torque - then you threw the bar away. Nothing ever came loose! Admittedly that was a very long time ago and my mentor was more used to Lancaster bombers than H-Ds...
However, in more than 20 years of Harleys nothing has ever dropped off except one saddle-bag bolt which I think I actually forgot to tighten.
 

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I live on a island surrounded by salt water, I've seen PVC pipe rust out (joking)

The best cure for the white rust is to wash the bike very well in detergent and lot and lots of fresh water, then wash all non painted parts in a product called salt away, it can me found in Boating supply catalogs such as West Marine.
After the saltaway shoot the dry metal with Corrosion X.
Repeat this every 3 mos, or when ever you start seeing a problem again.

Trust me on this.
:nod

Used salt-x to clean up some used scuba gear.
Safe on chrome, aluminum, rubber, doesn't remove oil or grease....

Salt-X = The best salt and salt corrosion fighter!
 

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I clean mine off with Chrome Cleaner ( yeah i know, they aren't chrome ) and it works good to get the "rust" off. Then I coat them with some veggie oil. Kind of the same idea as using veggie oil on your iron skillet to keep it from rusting.


-Rohan
 

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Ah - been here before and I know many didn't agree last time. I'm with you on the copper grease; even after a few years of our wet climate and salty winter roads everything comes apart easily when required.
Personally I don't use Loctite so that's not a problem. I was taught to spanner (sorry- wrench) things using a box spanner with a new, correct size, tommy-bar (no idea what you call that your side of the ditch!). When the bar bent you'd reached the right torque - then you threw the bar away. Nothing ever came loose! Admittedly that was a very long time ago and my mentor was more used to Lancaster bombers than H-Ds...
However, in more than 20 years of Harleys nothing has ever dropped off except one saddle-bag bolt which I think I actually forgot to tighten.
Thanks for history lesson Lancaster bombers. Quite the A/C in its day. A Tommy Bar, learn something new every day. Ride Safe
 

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Still don't know what a tommy bar is.
 

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Oh, a T handle. :loco
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think I will just replace the bolts. my next question is can I take one bolt at a time out of the casing without causing an oil leak? Next question is can anyone tell me if a 2015 ultra classic seat will fit a 2012 ultra classic
 

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:popcorn
 

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I think I will just replace the bolts. my next question is can I take one bolt at a time out of the casing without causing an oil leak? Next question is can anyone tell me if a 2015 ultra classic seat will fit a 2012 ultra classic
Yes
 
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