You need a load equalizer. The LED bulbs draw so little current that they can't activate the flasher.

The best solution is product from badlands Motorcycle Products. It is a patented design that doesn't generate any heat as many of them do. It won't burn out like a lot of them do.

If you can return the run/stop/turn module that you bought, you can get a module that is the load equalizer and R/S/T in one. It just plugs in. Very easy. It's called the Illuminateor.

 

Thanks for the info. Ive had the Harley module for a couple weeks so i cant return it. Is my best option to buy an equalizer to plug in between my module and rear light harness? If so any particular type of equalizer i should get?

 

Yes. You can add a load balancer. I'd still buy the balancer only product from badlands. It's the one people end up buying after the first one you buy fails.

Just call them. They'll help you out.

You'll love the LEDs. I've swapped out all of my lights for them.

 

http://www.badlandsmotorcycleproducts.com/2008/Products/BETCSM.htm

LE-03-A is probably it.

 

Badlands Motorcycle Products

LE-03-A is probably it.

Thanks again for the tip on the illuminator. I got lucky and sold my HD module to a buddy that has no plans of running led's .I ordered my new illuminator over the weekend and should have it wed.

My next upgrade will be ditching the led 1156 bulbs and going with a good set of led inserts, looking at the radiantz brand. If any one has other suggestion on good inserts id like to hear about them.

 

Thanks again for the info. I had the leds in today and they definetly look alot better and are alot brighter.

 

I have the Radianz. They are great.

There's an LED thread here in electrical that I started a while back. A lot of guys commented about what they are using.

 

Better than a load equalizer is to use an electronic
flasher, plugs into the the socket with no mods and they are not load dependent

 

The illuminator/equalizer product from Badlands is, in effect, an electronic flasher. It just plugs inline instead of plugging in the flasher socket. It is a solid state device that detects current in the circuit and manages the flashing. It doesn't load the circuit in any way through resistance. That's why it is preferred. It generates no heat, doesn't burn out and doesn't limit use of the flashers and/or hazards in any way.

And to the OP:

If you decide to swap out the whole rear end, there is a nice little dual intensity cluster you can get for the fender tip. It plugs into the taillight housing and, when used with a run/stop/turn rig, you get four lights with brighter intensity when the brakes are applied. It's very cool.

 

The way a flasher works, it has a bimetalic spring inside, when current is passed thru it, it heats up disconnecting the circuit(flash) then when it cools it makes contact again and repeats the process, thats why when you add lights, like a trailer you need to have a heavy duty flasher or they will click off faster- more current. The electric flasher is the way to go.

 

Exactly. It's also why LEDs won't flash. They don't draw enough current to heat up the spring.

 

The illuminator has been installed for a few days now and works great. My next move is to replace my current laydown taillight with a LED laydown style light and get radianz led turnsignal inserts front and rear. I was looking at the taillights on the badlands site. I wonder do the smoked/blackout led tailights show up just as well as the red? I reallylike the looks of the black ones but visibilty is what im really going for.

 

I have a 2013 Street Glide on order, should be here in a month. Its a Canadian spec one so it has a proper taillight, but i want to add the one that goes in the bottom of the fender. Has anyone tried this.....

Smoke LED Tail Brake Signal Light for Harley Street Glide FLH Flt Tri Bar Fender | eBay