I have a 2020 cvo 117 street glide. Just installed cr480 cam over the weekend. Power vision tuner and map from fuel moto. When driving in every gear there is just not a smooth take off when rolling on the throttle then it work fine when you keep going. I have screaming eagle head pipe, with the street cannon mufflers with the converter in the muffler. It also has harley auto tune. Fuel moto said to drive 4-5 tanks of fuel through it and it might work out. Im not buying that what else might be left. It wasnt dyno tuned that would probably fix it but Im trying to stay away from that right now. Thanks for your imput.
tekslk
as stated, get it tuned, if you have the capabilities with your tuner to auto tune, i would run that, but you have to make sure you know how to properly run, save, and upload the tune
also you will still want it tuned on a dyno, idk about s.e. but the powervision will map the a/f to 13:1 at all throttle positions, so your gas mileage will go out the window...also it does not auto tune ignition timing
this is where the dyno can find the ride-ability and power the auto tune cant
also you will still want it tuned on a dyno, idk about s.e. but the powervision will map the a/f to 13:1 at all throttle positions, so your gas mileage will go out the window...also it does not auto tune ignition timing
this is where the dyno can find the ride-ability and power the auto tune cant
Buy once, cry once. I have to tell/sell myself that for every tune, but always glad I did it once it's done.
Yeah, Power Vision has pretty complete abilities-especially with wideband O2 kit. That said, nothing will beat a few hours with a dyno and a tech who knows his business there. Those folks can do magic with the PV.
The Pro Super Tuner (orange box) doesn't change timing on Auto Tune, just fuel, so a dyno is best for the starting point, than after some riding, do some auto tunes to match to how you ride.
YES, once the dyno tune is finished, turn the Auto Tune on, with the wide band O2 sensors, it will fine tune on the spot for weather conditions and altitude on the fly. You need the dyno runs to get timing and fuel set throughout the rpm range. Once off the Dyno, you don't need timing changes, but fuel trimming on the fly will keep the bike happier. This is one of those modern technologies that if you have, take advantage of it.
I have a 2020 CVO Road glide with the CR480 cam. 40,000 miles and no issues. All these auto tuners (auto is false advertising) are nothing but band aids. Do some research and have a reputable pro do a one-and-done on it. After that, no need to plug anything else in. These ECM's are smart enough to make adjustments for altitude and all that other shit.
These bikes are expensive and the parts are expensive. The number A-number-1 top priority to any performance modification, whether its stage 1 or stage 487,345 should be a good comprehensive tuning plan.
Good luck!
These bikes are expensive and the parts are expensive. The number A-number-1 top priority to any performance modification, whether its stage 1 or stage 487,345 should be a good comprehensive tuning plan.
Good luck!
Power Vision has it's own auto tune feature built into it, as I have one and it works good. I do not know what Harley auto tune is, but maybe the two are having a conflict and that is the problem. Sounds like a fuel mapping problem with the take off that's why I say that. From what I understand with FI related tuners, only one auto tune should be installed.
I didn't find info about the AFR blanket setting while in Auto Tune on Fuel Moto's site, but I did find it on YouTube on DynoJet's videos. 13.1 is with the wide Band sensors. 14.6 is with the stock sensors. And there is a ton of other useful info on getting your tune better targeted with their vids.
Im taking it tomorrow to get it tuned, after its done should I turn auto tune on or leave it off?
you ALL (each & every one of you ) in this POST are exactly why Why WHY ... I refuse to buy a H-D newer than 1999 !If I can NOT work-on & can NOT tune my own BIKE ... without ... a MAGIC multi-Thousand-DOLLAR Computer or a DYNO ...
just to get my BIKE to run properly = I (IMHO) don't want it
More power to the DEALERSHIP ... & the AFTERMARKET ... but it seems as if from TWIN-CAM on up ... Harley-Davidson began SELLING anemic ENGINES --- just so the BUYER ...
Had to purchase Screaming Eagle HEADS & CAMS & TUNERS & EXHAUSTS & CUBIC-INCHES & Do-Dads & What-Nots ... just to KEEP up with the "JONES"
& also IMHO - if it actually "WORKS" = the EPA will find it "illegal" to run it on the STREETS
I love to READ about all the PROBLEMS & SOLUTIONS = but = it sounds, to ME, as a self-fulfilling PROPHESY
I can't wait ... after Anti-Lock-BRAKES & Throttle by WIRE ... aren't Motorcycle AIR-BAGS next on the AGENDA ?
Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh ... sound of my soapbox getting kicked back under the Workbench = Time for an Ice Cold BEER !
If done right the first time, hardly anything you said really applies. The issues arise when people try to cut corners and save money. Then it snowballs and gets harder.
200 bucks for a PowerVision license, then another $350-400 for the tune, then you're done. Not a huge investment by any means to have an optimal running bike. No carb'd bike or bike with an "attempted" tune with some sort of add-on device is going to run as good as another that's been comprehensively tuned by a professional. Period.
200 bucks for a PowerVision license, then another $350-400 for the tune, then you're done. Not a huge investment by any means to have an optimal running bike. No carb'd bike or bike with an "attempted" tune with some sort of add-on device is going to run as good as another that's been comprehensively tuned by a professional. Period.
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