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Grenade went off in the primary. A few scary moments...

13K views 50 replies 11 participants last post by  jandrso  
#1 ·
This is a bit of a long post but it helps to fully grasp the situation
Here is the basic history of my ride.


2002 Low Rider. I am the 4th owner. It was bought in May 2002 in Columbus, Ohio. It got sold to owner 2 and came to Florida. It sat mostly from owner #1-2-3 but was serviced properly. Owner 3 and I put most of the miles on it. She put on 7000 in about 2 years and I've doubled that to 15,173 miles in 3 more years.
It is serviced religiously and documented, by me and the other 3 previous owners.
The bike is in relatively pretty good shape for an 18-year-old, neglected until 5 years ago, motorcycle. It is an outside, but a well-covered, bike. It has light surface rust on or about the usual spots that I try to remove about monthly. It is not a show bike. I have been using it, weather and circumstances permitting, as a daily ride 4 days a week, to work in Ft. Lauderdale (57-mile roundtrip).
I have chased a few wiring/ground gremlins with no resolution. Every so often the check engine light will come on and it will stutter and recover. Sometimes not at all. Cold or hot. You get the picture. The possible culprits are loose ground, speedo sensor, crank position sensor, carburetor. The sensors have all been checked with no noticeable metal shavings and grounds tightened up.
I have replaced the following items, front brake pads with brake fluid flush in front, battery, voltage regulator. I have tightened all the ground wires. I tested the regulator and stator at the time of the battery replacement to determine it was the voltage regulator that was bad and killed the 3-year-old battery. The stator was putting out 22v-27v at 2000 or so rpm (enricher idle speed). The battery had 9.2v and would not hold charge passed 10.​

Here is..."The Incident".

So, last Thursday at 5:30 PM on I95 in South Florida, a small grenade or artillery shell, detonated in my outer primary, I THINK. <-- Emphasis on I THINK

This event happened at 80-85 MPH as I was trying to lane change to get off the interstate on an exit about 1/8th of a mile ahead. There were 2 distinct pop/bang sounds. About 1 second apart. Each sound was accompanied by a lurch that pushed my body forward. The first caused me to try and pull the clutch in but the lever wouldn't budge and the shifter was jammed in 5th gear. The second pop/bang event, locked up the back wheel. At 80-85 this is a bit of a pucker moment. The bike slowed down considerably (obviously) and the rear started to drift right as it does in a rear-wheel lock-up. I feathered the front brake, put my left foot down to create some drag, and hoped that it would be a painless death. Honestly, the only 2 thoughts that I had were 1.0 My son would be disappointed that I missed his art show at school that night, and 2.) I really should have gotten that new full-face helmet I wanted.

I did not put the bike down. I kept it up all the way to the shoulder at the entrance to the exit. I sat for a few moments in and I can't actually remember what I was thinking. I do know that I put down the stand, got off and stood off to the side of the bike. Fully 5 minutes went by before I gathered my composure to begin to see just WTF happened. I mean WTF. <-- this can't be emphasized enough!

The first thing I noticed was not a drop of fluid was coming out of the engine case. good sign. The second thing I did was check the oil. Clear enough for 1-month-old oil with about 1,200 miles on it. (daily rider to work). No discernable metal in the oil on the dipstick. I looked for a way to get the transmission dipstick out but had no appropriate hex bit, or tool for that matter, to remove it for a check. I got on it, reached down to turn the key on and noticed it was already in the full-on position. So I cycled it...and nothing. Cycled the run switch on the right grip and still got 0 lights or starting action. Like no power at all. Newish battery, new voltage regulator. <-- literally 1 week old with perfect performance for 3 days.

I try to use the clutch to put it in neutral but no joy. By this point I am not freaked out anymore, just pissed, so I pounded my foot on the shifter and got it down to 1st from 5th. I rocked it back and forth to get it to go into 2nd (compression is still good) and finally, after a few minutes, get it into neutral. I pushed it about 1 mile to a house of a friend of a friend and then trailered it home the next day.

I have it in the back of the house, covered. I intend to start the teardown on the primary side since that is what all the signs and symptoms show. I will fully photo document the carnage, starting with the draining of the fluid in the primary case. I hope that you all don't get too bored with the progress but it should be helpful to see what it was that trued to commit suicide in the motor. I hope it was not a normal wear and tear item that I or a previous owner should have kept up with. I can't think of anything on that side, in the outer primary case, besides the tensioner, that would require regular attention. I have only had to make a single clutch adjustment since I've owned her over the last 3 years.

So there you have it.

High-speed lock-up of the rear wheel.
Shifter jammed.
Loud pop/bang sound in left engine area.
Clutch inoperable.
The electrical system spooched again.


My bet is the stator shit the bed and in doing so, blasted the rotor and chunks went "a spinnin" into and around the clutch basket area and finally jammed in the primary chain.

Or not.
 
#4 ·
My first thought is the comp sprocket nut loosened up, common problem there.
I worked on a '09 bagger this spring that had similar symptoms of primary locking up. Upon inspection I found the rotor had grenaded, magnets everywhere! Took the stator out too. Pics here somewhere ?
OP needs to remove the outer primary cover to take a look see. Drain the primary oil into a clean pan for inspection prior to cover removal.
 
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#6 ·
SCHMIDTY most likely (since I'm off) Friday, I will get the time to drain the primary and sift through the fluid. Then, off the cover comes and we will see, "what's behind door # 1, Monty!!" I will Photo document the whole thing. From fluids to case interior and conditions. I will report back as soon as I get the chance. It's just too dark at night to do any meaningful work, and I honestly have been getting home so late, I just need to go to bed.

That said, I am dying know just what the heck happened. I haven't taken a wrench to the primary except to adjust the clutch and do the fluid changes. I've never even seen the comp, rotor, or stator on this particular bike. Oh well, first time for everything. Time passes.

Thank you all for the kind words and advice. I will get back here soon with info......
 
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#7 ·
So one week later, and I finally got the primary case drained. It has been quite a busy week. Just looking at the oil coming out right now as I type this it looks like engine oil. It’s not clear at all and quite frankly this concerns me. The drain plug has more than a significant amount of shavings...as a matter fact they’re quite chunky. See pictures
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Here is the engine...correction ...primary oil. I’m going to find a small magnet and run it through and see how many chunks come out. Here is the next picture of the drain plug to give you some perspective on the shavings.



So I’m off to dig through this oil. I will be back shortly to begin removing the left foot peg and bracket and shifter to take the primary cover off.
 
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#8 ·
Picture of the clutch as seen from the derby space.
no visible damage.
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Here is the inside of the primary cover. There is a fine residue of metal in the remaining oil in the spaces where it is pooling.
Nothing significant.
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#9 ·
When ya put it back together remember to get those two small round stick on gaskets that attach to the two standoffs on the outer primary cover. It'll leak without those gaskets !
 
#11 ·
When ya put it back together remember to get those two small round stick on gaskets that attach to the two standoffs on the outer primary cover. It'll leak without those gaskets !
[/QUOTE location by the shifter
SCHMIDTY, the 2 tapped stand-offs by the shifter shaft, in the middle where inspection cover screws in? Or the 2 dowels on the cases outer edge?
 
#10 ·
Here is the entire primary drive. There is no damage whatsoever. The only issue I see is the primary chain is a bit loose along the top.
for purposes of reference I am using a bolt to demonstrate the deflection.
I will go read the darn manual on the proper amount of tension, although I think it is from 1/2 to 1 inch. This still feels a bit loose.
I still think like there is an issue behind the compensator so I need to get a socket at the auto parts store. I hope the doesn’t turn out to be a wild goose chase....
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#12 ·
Inch and a half socket plus the socket for the clutch hub, maybe 7/8ths. The whole shit comes of at once. Clutch hub nut and comp nut removed and pull clutch, comp and chain off all at once. The clutch might be a bit tight on the trans main shaft, might have to pry to get loose.
5/16" play on the chain cold.
 
#13 ·
I see them now SCHMIDTY.
They stuck on to the inside of the case portion vs the cover. The main gasket is still on the cover but the little ones stayed on the stand-offs.

I’m starting to wonder if this isn’t a transmission issue since the incident had it stuck in 5th until I jammed it out.
Jeez. Well one thing at a time. I’ve been having charging issues and this stator needs inspecting since I’m this far.
Can I just pull the tensioner down to th lowest setting and remove the clutch and comp as a unit?

I am being being lazy by not digging through the book and just asking.

NEVERMIND I JUST SAW YOUR POST.
?
 
#15 ·
I see them now SCHMIDTY.
They stuck on to the inside of the case portion vs the cover. The main gasket is still on the cover but the little ones stayed on the stand-offs.

I’m starting to wonder if this isn’t a transmission issue since the incident had it stuck in 5th until I jammed it out.
Jeez. Well one thing at a time. I’ve been having charging issues and this stator needs inspecting since I’m this far.
Can I just pull the tensioner down to th lowest setting and remove the clutch and comp as a unit?

I am being being lazy by not digging through the book and just asking.
Ya gotta remove the tensioner with the rest. Pull the tensioner bolt out too (I forgot that minor point) !
 
#17 ·
I'll stay on this with ya buddy, done it 100> times before !
That was a lotta shit on the drain screw, I wonder if the rotor took a shit ?
If something happened inside the trans it wouldn't end up in the primary.
 
#19 ·
Thanks man! I appreciate that more than you know!
Here is where I am at so far today...

Got the appropriate sockets for the compensator bolt 1 1/2 inch 6 sided vs 12. I don’t want that to slip off. Got a breaker bar...can’t believe I couldn’t find my other.
got a 1 3/16 inch 6 sided socket for the clutch main shaft bolt.
Used a piece of wood in wedge shape to block the chain at the comp sprocket. Put it in 5th and had my 10 year old stand on the rear brake.
I am 280 lbs. It is a bear to bust the comp bolt off. Finally I felt it give and got it pulled off. I had the bolt, spacer, cover, and sliding cam. The sprocket and shaft extension are still in along with the chain.

9/16 is the socket to loosen the tensioner nut enough to drop it down to get it out of the way.
Used this nifty hollow socket for the removal of the clutch locknut. Unscrewed the adjustment screw out and the pushrod slid out.
That’s not happened before. I sort of just pushed it back in. Hopefully to where it needed to go.

I can’t for the life of me find my snap-ring pliers. I have this nice assortment of snap-ring pliers kit to do all types of snap-rings. What a pain in the butt.

At this point it’s dark. I have all the parts that are off, bagged and tagged. The bike is wrapped, snugly, with a tarp.
I have so much crap to do tomorrow I doubt I’m going to get to it. Sunday morning looks promising. I’ll get some more snap-ring pliers tomorrow.
More pics to follow as well. I’m at a Boy Scout meeting with my kids.
Ride safe all!
 
#18 ·
I'm hoping you don't find a lot of $$ parts to replace, been following this thread. My money is on a toasted stator.. won't account for a locked tranny, but will account for that loud bang. Was riding with a guy when his quit, giving it throttle up hill.. loud backfire with a cloud of smoke. Luckily it was just the stator which took out the voltage regulator. Just my .02.
 
#20 ·
I've been following along on this thread. Been there done that when I had to replace the drive belt on my King. Ur getting great advice from Schmidty and I am with Got Gold on it being the stator as the culprit. Having the rear tire lock up has me concerned the something got in the teeth of the sprocket, so check to make sure there's no damage in that area or it could chew up the drive belt.
 
#21 ·
If ya have an old flat file cut it to length to wedge at an angle between the comp sprocket and clutch hub for installing the drive train. A chunk of wood will crush to much when torquing the comp and clutch bolt.
Not to worry about the clutch pushrod, it slides loose inside the trans main shaft.
Take alotta pics for reference.(y)
 
#22 ·
SCHMIDTY---Got it. Thanks for the tip. I will dig up an old file or rod. So as soon as it is light this morning I will go out and start the clutch work.
I did notice a significant smell. Sort of like a burnt clutch but different. It is in the oil and the wet clutch basket. Did someone say that a blown stator might make a weird smell? If not, I think I will micrometer the clutch plates to make sure they are in spec. Might as well not half-ass it. While they are out, I will do it.
I'm not a stunt rider and overall this bike only has 15k miles so the clutch should be fine for the most part. Except I can't speak for the first 7k miles of its life. When I adjusted the clutch last time it was perfect. Just the right amount of free play at the end and engagement beginning at 1/4 pull from the end of the free play. Perfect for me.
 
#24 ·
Amen to that.
So here are the pictures.

Note the discolorations on the clutch plates. I am not sure this is normal or not. I have not seen it before though.
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Here is the cam portion of the compensating sprocket. Note the divot in the one upper portion on the right lobe. Should I replace this sprocket as a matter of concern or leave it?
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Here is the rotor finally off. SCHMIDTY wins the prize. A magnet chunk has been grounding out the stator. Finally it must have cut loose from the rotor causing all kinds of heck.

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Well, it looks like a new stator/rotor assembly is in order. Any recommendations on a reliable maker of this assembly? Also, looks like a clutch pack teardown and cleaning as well just for peace of mind's sake.

Here is a photo from the remainder of the teardown. The inner race of the compensating sprocket that bears on the crankshaft extension is looking odd. See the discolored markings that match up to the inner sprocket race.
Should this be a concern? there is no free play or slop in the 2 parts when assembled.
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There are also wear marks on the inner primary rotor spaces. There is one small chip on the inner primary case along the outer edge of the rotor race. It can be seen here.
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The crankshaft appears to be fine. No movements or wobbles when handled.

Thats all for now. Got to save up for the parts. Guess what I am asking for, for Christmas?

Safe rides to all.
SCHMIDTY, thank you so much for sticking with me through this. I sure appreciate your help and guidance as I am sure everyone does. Thanks to all that commented and made suggestions. That is what makes these forums so great.
 
#25 ·
Spacer is common scuffing, the chip doesn't hurt as long as it's not on the o-ring seal surface.
It's a good bet the shorted stator burnt out the regulator. If you have a test light touch each contact in the regulator connector to ground. If the light comes on the regulator is shot. Battery must be connected for this test.
You did disconnect the battery before disassembly correct ?
I've got some part numbers for ya for replacement parts, no MoCo parts either, they're SHIT !
 
#26 ·
Ok so I’ve been looking at JP Cycles and Dennis Kirk for parts just to see and I notice that as far as figment goes I can get from 32, 38, and 45 amp stators and rotors.
Really? How in the world would I know which one is appropriate for my ride? They all say “replacement for H-D part#xxxxx-xx.
For goodness sake. My part is 29951-99A. I hesitate to buy a MoCo part due to price but may have too.
I will do more research.
 
#27 ·
Crap the battery. Son of a piss biscuit. Idiot.
I did disconnect the stator from the regulator. But just dumbass move. I hope I didn’t fry the ignition. Or worse.

I just replaced the regulator too with a MoCo part.
I’ll test it.
 
#28 ·
I don’t have a test light but the following was a result of me clipping onto the battery ground.

At the regulator to stator plug, left pin shows 0.790.080 and fluctuates between the two numbers. The right pin as well.
I am not liking the feelings I am getting. Any positive voltage however minuscule is bad... right?
That’s $149.00 of money the MoCo got just 3 weeks ago or so.
Crap
 
#30 ·
I don’t have a test light but the following was a result of me clipping onto the battery ground.

At the regulator to stator plug, left pin shows 0.790.080 and fluctuates between the two numbers. The right pin as well.
I am not liking the feelings I am getting. Any positive voltage however minuscule is bad... right?
That’s $149.00 of money the MoCo got just 3 weeks ago or so.
Crap
If you're getting DC volts at the reg. contacts that indicates battery (B+) volts are trickling back thru the reg. to the stator which will discharge the battery when the ignition is off. It's an indication of a failed diode.
 
#29 ·
J&P # 104-574 sealed rotor, no exposed magnets. $147.56. (Accell)
J&P # 223-305 32 amp stator. $87.99 (Standard Products) No need for more amps.
J&P # 361-858 sealed stator screws. $0.99 (need 4)
Plus primary cover gaskets, etc.. I would use ATF in the primary.
If needed I would use the Standard Products 32 amp regulator too. Quality products there.
If the test light doesn't work then check for DC volts at the reg. connector to a good ground.
 
#33 ·
SCHMIDTY, I’m starting to like the idea of non-exposed magnet for as well. I will talk to the banker (wife) and probably pop for the stator and rotor with associated screws gaskets etc. If I still have current leakage I’ll replace the regulator again.
It won’t damage the new stator will it?
 
#34 ·
SCHMIDTY, I’m starting to like the idea of non-exposed magnet for as well. I will talk to the banker (wife) and probably pop for the stator and rotor with associated screws gaskets etc. If I still have current leakage I’ll replace the regulator again.
It won’t damage the new stator will it?
Not if ya catch it quick. If you're not sure about the reg. I would put it all back together and start the engine and check for charge volts across the battery terminals. Ya wanna see more volts at the terminals with the engine running, 13.5 > 14.5 volts. Then you can do the current drain test later. I'll walk ya thru that too, it's easy.
There's some good UTube vids on checking motorcycle regulators too.
 
#36 ·
Jandrso, I appreciate how you’re documenting and keeping us posted. I’m following, and learning from Schmidty’s advice for future reference. These are the kind of threads I enjoy the most on a motorcycle forum.

P.S.
Thanks Schmidty for sticking with him. Like I said the other day, I appreciate how you help folks and don’t dumb-ass them to the point of running them off.