Well they just don’t secretly hide fuses and relays to stump you. Should be pretty easy to identify the pump relay. If you arnt smart enough to use a multi meter you can always swap it with another relay see if it works then.

some common sense stuff. Make sure your run switch is on because that’s what runs the pump. And while you have that multi meter check to make sure you have power to the pump. If you have power to the pump then your pumps bad.

if everything worked fine before you replaced the battery and now all the sudden it don’t after. . I’d go back to the battery replacement stage and see what you dint hook up or hooked up wrong. Just have to start testing see where power stops.

 

Thank you for the reply. Slights aside, I'll try and explain it more simply for you.....
Ignition switch in ON position, everything powers up like normal. flip the kill switch, which SHOULD momentarily provide power to the fuel pump for prime, press start switch and engine turns over and should start, but doesn't.
All fuses are on the left side with the cooling relay and a PA Relay.
ALL FUSES ARE GOOD. I have no idea how to TEST a RELAY.
Has NOTHING TO DO WITH HOW SMART I AM!
I've never had to to do it, never inquired how to do it.
And Yes, I've checked the plugs for power. NOTHING.

I'm 55 miles from my dealer, I came on here hoping for assistance from someone that might know how to test it or a way to bypass it if it is bad and start it.

 

Chey: good morning! 0’4 HD 1200 sportster: put in new Batt, engine turns over, won’t start. Read my face off, sounds like I have a bad fuse to fuel pump. Problem is I can’t find the fuse! All I have under seat is a 4” square 1” thick box with a lot of wires going to it but It is solid; no way to open (part 32478-0403316). There is another small “box” under the front part of the seat, no idea what it is. What I would like to do is take 2-3 pics of both to help solve my problem and, if you approve, send them to you for your opinion. They are the only things that look like they may be the problem if I can find, In them, a bad fuse. May I send you some pics? Charlie (Pa.) I will need your EM address if you aprove.

 

Update: Learned something I didn't know, There is a P&A Relay AND a P&A Fuse.
It's a 20 amp. As soon as I turn on the ignition, it pops. Granted, switch is on when I do.
Nothing has been added accessory wise to that circuit.
Guess it's time to pull it apart and see which accessory is causing the problem.

 

Update: Learned something I didn't know, There is a P&A Relay AND a P&A Fuse.
It's a 20 amp. As soon as I turn on the ignition, it pops. Granted, switch is on when I do.
Nothing has been added accessory wise to that circuit.
Guess it's time to pull it apart and see which accessory is causing the problem.

If the relay kicks soon as you throw the power sounds like you have a short. Have ya by any chance had your clamps or bars loose lately? Super easy to pinch a wire with those perch clamps.

 

I told you the easy free way to test a relay. Swap them around and see if the pump works. Ya have two the exact same.
And it does have to do with how smart you are. If your not smart enough to read a multi meter then that’s what I meant. I wasn’t talking down on you. Hell I ant smart enough to do a lot of things. But I can read a meter. And I suspect if and when you decide to learn you will be able to. Lol. And owning a Harley I highly recommend learning. Throwing parts at a Harley can get extremely pricey. And these newer bike multi meter knowledge can and will save your day. People have such thin skin these days.

 

I told you the easy free way to test a relay. Swap them around and see if the pump works. Ya have two the exact same. And it does have to do with how smart you are. If your not smart enough to read a multi meter then that’s what I meant. I wasn’t talking down on you. Hell I ant smart enough to do a lot of things. But I can read a meter. And I suspect if and when you decide to learn you will be able to. Lol. And owning a Harley I highly recommend learning. Throwing parts at a Harley can get extremely pricey. And these newer bike multi meter knowledge can and will save your day. People have such thin skin these days.

Some of these newer bikes do not have relays. They have BCM's.

 

Yea if that’s for sure the problem “shorted wire”. Not much you can do but just search for it. I’d check everything on that circuit to AtLeast see what wires are the problem. Maybe best to bypass the harness with new wires than to replace the whole thing over one bad wire. Yours has a radiator?

how do you like those power duels? I have the neighbor haters on and the power duels waiting. they just don’t sound right with a catted head imo

 

The few times I've had it fired up they sound great. Loud, low rumble.
The problem I'm running into on the wiring is finding a diagram that's acutally USABLE. Owners manual nor parts manual are really any help and the one link I found online? Not much better. Wire harnesses are color coded in just about everything except Semi's. Which are all numbered. lol
I;ve ohmed out the harness from the fuel pump down to where it connects near the ECM, it's fine, so what ever the problem is, it's past that point.
Was hoping to find a way to power the pump outside the system, but don't know which wires are for the pump and which are for the sending unit.
Shouldn't be the heated grips as those aren't even connected yet. Ive seen that issue pop up from people changing handle bars out. There's a two prong button on the inside of the right grip that tends to fall out if you don't know about it. Pins get bent over and shorts out when you put your grips back on.
Flat tire I had Jan 2021 is starting to get expensive. lol

 

I’d considered buying the original service Manual for your specific bike from the dealership. There pricey but well worth it. All the third party ones never have all the full info.

first thing I do when I buy a bike is get the Bible not just Harley but any and everybike I ever buy. I’d be lost most the times without the manual

 

Nearly every bike they make is close to the same. Small variances, but you can take a wiring harness from a road king and use it on an Ultra. I've got power plugs for things the bike didn't even come with. lol
If I can't get it worked out, I'll continue with the upgrades. S&S Cam, kick it up to a 121 instead of a 107.
Only having one day a week really sucks when you're trying to work on things.

 

Well like they say close is only relative in horseshoes and hand grenades. I’d buy the Manual. . So if you can’t figure out why it want start Your just gonna upgrade the hell out of it till it does start? 🙄

I guess If at first you don’t suck a seed. Suck and suck till ya do suck a seed

good luck on your bike buddy.

 

Well like they say close is only relative in horseshoes and hand grenades. I’d buy the Manual. . So if you can’t figure out why it want start Your just gonna upgrade the hell out of it till it does start? 🙄

I guess If at first you don’t suck a seed. Suck and suck till ya do suck a seed

good luck on your bike buddy.

Horseshoe, hand grenades....and Atom bombs.... Scum, it looks like you made yet another friend.

 

Man, you're tacky as hell aren't you? I came here looking for help, and found little of it but plenty of insults. Thanks, just confirms why I don't hang around people.
Have a good day.

 

I have a few ideas. First that fuse that's burning out as soon as the ignition is turned on. That could be pinched wires up inside the right switch housing. Testing for fuel pump power, you only have 3 seconds to test that. You can power the fuel pump directly from the connector under the seat. Follow the tank bonnet harness down to the connector. The pump can be powered with a jumper from the battery positive terminal with the ignition off.

 

That's what I've heard, problem is, which wire? 4 wire plug at the connection to the fuel pump. left to right view from the seat would be black, black, red, white. I don't like assuming which is what since providing power to the wrong wire could short out the sending unit.

 

Oh it’s. A 18. I was looking 08. Pretty sure red and black will run the pump. Shmidty will know for sure. But you could drop the pump and see what the two colors wires that’s actually on the pump and not the sender just to check. But if I’m reading the diagram right it’s the red and blk beside of it

 

If you want help, stop getting all puffed up about how people respond.

Focus on the problem, not the forum.

The pump gets its power from the BCM.

But there is a power in to the BCM that comes from the P&A circuit.

Pull the P&A relay, does the fuse still blow when the relay is removed?

 

If you want help, stop getting all puffed up about how people respond.

Focus on the problem, not the forum.

The pump gets its power from the BCM.

But there is a power in to the BCM that comes from the P&A circuit.

Pull the P&A relay, does the fuse still blow when the relay is removed?

I'll try that this weekend when I get back and let you know.

 

FWIW, I found Harley's on-line Service portal helpful in tracing the electrical on my FLHTP:

H-D Service Information Portal

serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com

 

Did you ever stop to think I can do more than one thing at a time? I can spend time working on the wiring and should I decide I want to do other upgrades it's an option as well. My issue had nothing to do with your suggestion of getting any manuals. I have those.

 

If you want to get this resolved, you need to focus on the issue and stop being so thin skinned.

Get rid of the test light, they are for hooking up trailer lights, you need to use a voltmeter.

One issue at a time, you need to resolve the P&A fuse issue.

Pull the P&A relay, turn on the ignition switch, see if the P&A fuse still blows.

 

With the P&A relay in place, yes it does.

 

Good advice, Like I said earlier, I'll check it when I get home this weekend.

 

Ok, Did some initial checking. P&A Fuse blows when the relay is in place. Tried swapping relay's, same result, unplugged handlebar controls from the infotainment system, same result. disconnected the fuel pump, same result. I can't find any visible signs of rubbing or defects in the harness itself.
I can turn the key on and it's fine, but as soon as I turn on the start switch, it blows. I think it's referred to as a kill switch.

 

My post #22 bypasses the fuses and relay. Try powering the fuel pump with B+ from the battery positive terminal with a jumper wire to see if the pump runs. Ignition off and just B+ long enough to see if the pump runs is all. The pump B+ wire is that round white connector with one wire at the tail end of the tank, the others are for the sender unit.
I have a '00 Ultra in my shop now and this is how I'm running the pump on that bike.

 

Read Schmidty`s post # 22, run direct power to the pump to see if it works.

The power for the pump is the Red/Brown wire.

 

Tried that, IF a ground is not needed, pump won't run. Like I said, I can get it to start on ether with the bypass, but it dies as soon as the ether stops. So either it's really quiet, or not functioning.
Is it normal for them to just quit like that?

 

Clarify something for us:

The title of this thread is No power to fuel pump.

How did you determine that there is no power to fuel pump?

 

Ok, I believe I went thru that in another comment on here. But, here we go.
Been working on this for about a 15 months so far. Had a flat, ended up with some scaring on the saddle bags. Decided to do some upgrades while I was waiting 3 months to get tires last year. Completely removed every piece of plastic and metal body work from the bike, sanded it down, fixed the nicks, dings and scratches, repainted everything. Changed out the OEM headers for a set of V&H Bagger Duals and Cobra Neighbor Haters.
Now, in the process of tearing things down, I removed the quick disconnect from the tank without disconnecting the fuel line from the pump first. I know, bad idea, didn't realize it at the time.
Replaced the damaged line, put the unit back in the tank after I painted it.
Put the tank, both fenders, inner fairing and most of the rear back together. Thought I'd start the bike before I got to far to make sure I hadn't missed anything.
Battery was dead. tried the tender overnight, didn't work. So used a standard car charger on slow charge.
after a few hours, bike fired right up. No problem.
Shut everything down, called it a day. Next weekend I'm back at it. Battery is dead. Ok, through a charger on it on slow charge. After a couple hours I noticed the battery was getting hot, as well as the ECM. Just incase I damaged the ECM, I ordered a ThrunderMax Tunner/ECM and installed it, but got same results even after loading a basic map. Disconnected, went and got a battery.
Now the bike turns over just fine, but won't start. Tried ether, bike runs, but dies when you stop putting ether in it.
Started checking plugs for power, found none at the connection under the dash, nor at the connection near the ECM. I've ohmed out the dash harness, it appears fine.
This is about the time I found out there is not only a P&A Relay, but Fuse as well. It was blown. Replaced it, it blew as soon as I turned on the kill switch with the ignition on. Per someone's suggestion, Pulled the Relay and fuse doesn't blow.
I've run a jumper between the battery and the Red wire, but even though bike will start on ether, it won't run on it's own. Same result with the White/Orange wire. This is with the relay pulled.
I did loosen the the sending unit/fuel pump assembly so I could visually see it and I don't see anything disconnected but haven't pulled it completely out of the tank yet.
Currently looking for a video or some other reference on how to remove that pump so I can maybe check it outside the tank.
I'm not a mechanic, but I do a decent job of it if I can find the information I need. I've been working on everything from Weedwackers to class 8 trucks since I was about 8.

 

You quoted my post but did not answer any of the questions I asked you in that post...

 

Actually, I gave you more information than you asked for. Bad habit, but thought it might save some time. I determined the fuel pump had no power because 1: I could run in on ether only, 2: Using a test light indicated no power at any of the 4 wires that plugged into the sending unit/fuel pump housing below the dash. I was told you couldn't check it that way because it's only a second or so it get's power.
Since then, thanks to help from here, I figured out how to bypass the P&A Relay and get power to the pump. It does work. Just need to replace the Fuel Pickup Tube. One HD sells is too short by about 4" in comparison to the original.
Since it runs fine on ether, spark isn't the issue, it's a fuel issue. EFI systems have to have a certain amount of pressure from the pump to activate the injectors. Once I get the pickup tube replaced, I can check that one off.
I try to be as descriptive as I can, but I'm not perfect, I do miss things.

 

The BCM is not part of the P&A circuit, it is not causing the fuse to blow.

The likely cause is the wire is chafed and touching ground somewhere.

The wire is Violet/Blue.

 

Sorry if I somehow insinuated that the P&A circuit went thru the BCM. The Fuel pump power is however. That's why I was mentioning it.
Now, seems a bit odd to me, but if the P&A fuse is blowing, but not connected to the BCM, yet the Fuel pump is, how is that affecting fuel pump power? Seems they would be separate circuits if that's the case.

 

FYI the replacement check valve / hose assembly is shorter that the original hose. The original long hose could rub on the inside of the tank causing pin holes in the hose resulting in a fuel pressure loss. The bonnet needs to be partially installed into the tank before the hose can be connected to the filter. Also those fuel hoses are easier to install if the clamp end is carefully heated with a heat gun to soften it up prior to installation. Put the clamp on the filter first then slide the hose on.

 

I tried that. I don't have a large rectangular plate, I have a hole about the size of my hand to fit all this in. With the new line, the end that slips on to the fuel filter just reaches the edge of the opening. I can't get the filter, plate AND my hand in there at the same time. I've tried using crooked needle nose pliers but there's just not enough room with it being that short. 2 more inches would have a made a world of difference.

 

You are correct. BCM pin F4 is power to the R/BN wire at connect 141B.
So ... is it your conclusion that the BCM is at fault ?
BCM # 41000341F $196.99 at Ronnie's H-D.
The only way that I'm aware of to properly diagnose the ECM and BCM systems are with the Digital Tech shop computer.