[Saint]

FWIW, I found Harley's on-line Service portal helpful in tracing the electrical on my FLHTP:

H-D Service Information Portal

serviceinfo.harley-davidson.com

 

[SCHMIDTY]

That's what I've heard, problem is, which wire? 4 wire plug at the connection to the fuel pump. left to right view from the seat would be black, black, red, white. I don't like assuming which is what since providing power to the wrong wire could short out the sending unit.

The black wires are grounds for the sender and pump, the red and white wires are power for the sender and pump. Briefly apply B+ to both red and then white to see which one starts the pump. If I'd have the schematic in front of me I'd be able to tell you exactly if the red or white wire is the pump B+.

 

[Harleyjef]

I’m not sure how I insulted him. Buying a manual for a bike your working on is good advice. Trouble shooting your existing problem before you move on to upgrades just seems logical. Idk. Guess he just took it wrong. Or maybe I am just a ***. Either way I apologize to the original poster if I offended him in some way. But I still stand by if want to find the problem before I started changing stuff around. You get to deep and it may be a nightmare to back track. Especially wiring stuff

Yeah, you're probably just an ****....but you're our ****....lol😂

 

[cheyennetrk]

Did you ever stop to think I can do more than one thing at a time? I can spend time working on the wiring and should I decide I want to do other upgrades it's an option as well. My issue had nothing to do with your suggestion of getting any manuals. I have those.

 

[Dan89flstc]

If you want to get this resolved, you need to focus on the issue and stop being so thin skinned.

Get rid of the test light, they are for hooking up trailer lights, you need to use a voltmeter.

One issue at a time, you need to resolve the P&A fuse issue.

Pull the P&A relay, turn on the ignition switch, see if the P&A fuse still blows.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Good advice, Like I said earlier, I'll check it when I get home this weekend.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Ok, Did some initial checking. P&A Fuse blows when the relay is in place. Tried swapping relay's, same result, unplugged handlebar controls from the infotainment system, same result. disconnected the fuel pump, same result. I can't find any visible signs of rubbing or defects in the harness itself.
I can turn the key on and it's fine, but as soon as I turn on the start switch, it blows. I think it's referred to as a kill switch.

 

[cheyennetrk]

If you want to get this resolved, you need to focus on the issue and stop being so thin skinned.

Get rid of the test light, they are for hooking up trailer lights, you need to use a voltmeter.

One issue at a time, you need to resolve the P&A fuse issue.

Pull the P&A relay, turn on the ignition switch, see if the P&A fuse still blows.

With the P&A relay in place, yes it does.

 

[Dan89flstc]

With the P&A relay in place, yes it does.

Pull (remove) the P&A relay, turn ignition switch on, does fuse blow?

 

[SCHMIDTY]

My post #22 bypasses the fuses and relay. Try powering the fuel pump with B+ from the battery positive terminal with a jumper wire to see if the pump runs. Ignition off and just B+ long enough to see if the pump runs is all. The pump B+ wire is that round white connector with one wire at the tail end of the tank, the others are for the sender unit.
I have a '00 Ultra in my shop now and this is how I'm running the pump on that bike.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Pull (remove) the P&A relay, turn ignition switch on, does fuse blow?

No, With the relay out, it does not.

 

[SCHMIDTY]

No, With the relay out, it does not.

Of course, it can't.
Try what I asked and state the results please. We here are all trying to help ya with this, but I think we all need to coordinate our efforts ! I think we're throwing to much shit your way all at the same time !
I'm going to linger until I hear what you got from my input from post # 30.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Of course, it can't.
Try what I asked and state the results please. We here are all trying to help ya with this, but I think we all need to coordinate our efforts ! I think we're throwing to much shit your way all at the same time !
I'm going to linger until I hear what you got from my input from post # 30.

Ok, Disconnected the harness, Black, Black/purple, Red, White/orange are the wires that plug into the top of the unit where the fuel pump and sending unit is. Without using a ground, as Im hearing its grounded through the ecm, I've tried the red and white/orange wires, can't hear pump run, can start bike using ether, but dies as there's no fuel. This is without the relay installed.
Do I need to use a ground wire jumper?

 

[Dan89flstc]

Of course, it can't.
Try what I asked and state the results please. We here are all trying to help ya with this, but I think we all need to coordinate our efforts ! I think we're throwing to much shit your way all at the same time !
I'm going to linger until I hear what you got from my input from post # 30.

Of course it could, if the wire between the fuse and the relay was the wire that was shorted.

It could also blow if the wire between the P&A fuse and the CB radio was shorted.

It was a simple step that probably took the OP 2 seconds to perform, and now we can eliminate that part of the wiring.

Simple stuff first...

 

[cheyennetrk]

Of course it could, if the wire between the fuse and the relay was the wire that was shorted.

It could also blow if the wire between the P&A fuse and the CB radio was shorted.

It was a simple step that probably took the OP 2 seconds to perform, and now we can eliminate that part of the wiring.

Simple stuff first...

Question is? Now what?

 

[Dan89flstc]

Read Schmidty`s post # 22, run direct power to the pump to see if it works.

The power for the pump is the Red/Brown wire.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Of course it could, if the wire between the fuse and the relay was the wire that was shorted.

It could also blow if the wire between the P&A fuse and the CB radio was shorted.

It was a simple step that probably took the OP 2 seconds to perform, and now we can eliminate that part of the wiring.

Simple stuff first...

According to the wiring diagram, Fuel Pump Power comes from the BCM. Pin F4 on that connector. R/BN is what it's label is.

 

[cheyennetrk]

Read Schmidty`s post # 22, run direct power to the pump to see if it works.

The power for the pump is the Red/Brown wire.

Tried that, IF a ground is not needed, pump won't run. Like I said, I can get it to start on ether with the bypass, but it dies as soon as the ether stops. So either it's really quiet, or not functioning.
Is it normal for them to just quit like that?

 

[Dan89flstc]

Clarify something for us:

The title of this thread is No power to fuel pump.

How did you determine that there is no power to fuel pump?

 

[cheyennetrk]

Clarify something for us:

The title of this thread is No power to fuel pump.

How did you determine that there is no power to fuel pump?

Ok, I believe I went thru that in another comment on here. But, here we go.
Been working on this for about a 15 months so far. Had a flat, ended up with some scaring on the saddle bags. Decided to do some upgrades while I was waiting 3 months to get tires last year. Completely removed every piece of plastic and metal body work from the bike, sanded it down, fixed the nicks, dings and scratches, repainted everything. Changed out the OEM headers for a set of V&H Bagger Duals and Cobra Neighbor Haters.
Now, in the process of tearing things down, I removed the quick disconnect from the tank without disconnecting the fuel line from the pump first. I know, bad idea, didn't realize it at the time.
Replaced the damaged line, put the unit back in the tank after I painted it.
Put the tank, both fenders, inner fairing and most of the rear back together. Thought I'd start the bike before I got to far to make sure I hadn't missed anything.
Battery was dead. tried the tender overnight, didn't work. So used a standard car charger on slow charge.
after a few hours, bike fired right up. No problem.
Shut everything down, called it a day. Next weekend I'm back at it. Battery is dead. Ok, through a charger on it on slow charge. After a couple hours I noticed the battery was getting hot, as well as the ECM. Just incase I damaged the ECM, I ordered a ThrunderMax Tunner/ECM and installed it, but got same results even after loading a basic map. Disconnected, went and got a battery.
Now the bike turns over just fine, but won't start. Tried ether, bike runs, but dies when you stop putting ether in it.
Started checking plugs for power, found none at the connection under the dash, nor at the connection near the ECM. I've ohmed out the dash harness, it appears fine.
This is about the time I found out there is not only a P&A Relay, but Fuse as well. It was blown. Replaced it, it blew as soon as I turned on the kill switch with the ignition on. Per someone's suggestion, Pulled the Relay and fuse doesn't blow.
I've run a jumper between the battery and the Red wire, but even though bike will start on ether, it won't run on it's own. Same result with the White/Orange wire. This is with the relay pulled.
I did loosen the the sending unit/fuel pump assembly so I could visually see it and I don't see anything disconnected but haven't pulled it completely out of the tank yet.
Currently looking for a video or some other reference on how to remove that pump so I can maybe check it outside the tank.
I'm not a mechanic, but I do a decent job of it if I can find the information I need. I've been working on everything from Weedwackers to class 8 trucks since I was about 8.