None of those are my choice..... I might use 2-into-1 if I had 'em,

but I am just barely too fond of the separate sound of duals to buck up for them.

IMHO You left out some really important middle ground

if you're looking for all opinions from WFO to stock quiet.

I don't AT ALL like the raspy-crackle-shrill loudness that drag pipes represent to me.

But I do like staggered duals, or the equivalent, either the early Screaming Eagle

or stock skillfully altered for all of sound, but deep and booming, all thunder with NO crackle.

I'd bet that option would get 30% of your votes. Note that the pipes I'd vote for are similar

to the bafflectomy that Dave documented, back in the first century. Those pipes get harsh

at full throttle high rpm when they can and should. But at idle and cruise have a big booming voice.

Short straight drag pipes, I could hardly drive home if you gave me a bike.

my lowrider came with '05 spec SE duals, marked "OFF ROAD" pre '06 when it meant something,

it cannot avoid setting off car alarms in a parking structure, but to my tastes,

drag pipes add a mean and nasty pitch to what would otherwise be soul stirring music.


:ride
.

 

Baffling speeds exhaust veloicity. Exhaust velocity aids in scavenging. Exhaust velocity is necessary to keep and maintain midrange torque, which we ALL use, based on the cam specs and areas the V-twin engine makes torque.

I love the SOUND of a drag pipe'd shovelhead or Evo, but if I had a choice as to what to ride... The quieter, torque producing bike would win every time.

 

Its really hard to announce , " I"VE ARRIVED " , on your HARLEY when its got stock EPA
pipes on it !
Sorry guys , but there just ain't nothin that sounds as good as a Harley , any Harley with a set of 40" 1&3/4" DRAG PIPES or SAMSON 55" true dual straights with fish tails that are rackin back down from a high RPM run through the gears ! I mean NOTHIN !!
I know , I know , its not politically correct , but neither am I .
Those damn ricer's may kinda look like a Harley from a distance but they sure as hell don't have that Harley bark !
You want a nice quiet Honda , get'cha one .

 

Me likes'em LOUD. V&H Softail True Duals...unbaffled of course

 

I have the samson version of the longshots with no baffles and they sound great. Loud but I love it. I also really like the 2 into 1's as well.

 

I have V&H Straight Shots w/ Big City Thunder Monster Baffles(The baffles are new to my setup) and they are the sheet for my bike. Big booming sound, nice growl on decel with no popping. :thumbsup

I was running 1/2 length baffles that were very loud (they didn't pop on decel either). There sure ain't much to the BCT Monster Baffles, but they make a big difference in throttle response on my carbed bike. At WOT I estimate them to be nearly as loud.

 

American Custom with no barrels a nice deep growl..love it!!!!! I also have the mid size baffle just in case when I ride two up...Have to keep her happy.

 

Car alarm bingo, is my favorite game!

 

I've never heard it called that omg I just sprayed coffee all over my monitor:laugh I needed a laugh today thanks.

 

I LOVE the look and sound of 1 3/4" drag pipes, but I HATE the performance. I kept the look and gave up part of the sound with Thunder Monster baffles, but I got a huge increase in performance. I get lots of compliments on the sound of my bike, and it is so unique around where I live that EVERYBODY knows it's me and from a long way off when I'm strokin'!

 

Pythons. I like 'em a lot!!

 

I bought my fatboy with V&H longshot straight pipes,and i had to install the factory exhaust to pass the provincial inspection... now i feel like riding an electric bike, i'm looking for quiet baffle for my vh in order to get some feeling out of that 88 ci

 

I love the sound of the unmuffled Harley and have ridden for over 45 years, but with that, airplanes, tractors and chain saws, I now have tinnitus and at times it drives me crazy.
I suggest, whatever you choose lads, protect your hearing.

 

So, I broke down and inserted the baffles. I miss the drag pipe sound, but I don't miss the ringing in my ears after a longer ride. I still don't notice any seat of the pants increase in torque or horsepower and the pipes sound a little louder (maybe 10db more than stock) but it still sounds to me like a chuff chuff. My neighbors are happier and I don't get as much unwanted attention as what I used to. I guess it's for the better but I'm keeping my eyes open for a set of 2-1's on the used end. Figure if I'm going to get the performance, might as well go tried and true.

 

My 2-into-2's are plugged (barely) right now, and I've been debating on pulling the baffles just to see how loud they really can be. I was told by Freedom that b/c of the triple-stepped header design that you don't lose any power or torque in the bottom-end, so I figured one of these days I'd give it a shot and see how they sound.

 

I ride an 96 EVO with Samson Street Sweepers without baffles ... they are loud as hell and bark the the biggest dog in the pen .... Bottem end torque really dropped, so I put a set of torque cones in and all the low end returned and the sound stayed the same. They go in the exhaust pipe where it attaches to the head.... a cheap and easy fix !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I have a 98 Sporty with the Screamin eagle pipes on it, no baffles. The bike sounds like a Harley should..at least to me. Due to various complaints, I don't start it in the garage.. seems it shakes the house a bit. Got an 03 Road King stock pipes, I went from Harley to "are you kidding me?" It will be going in pretty soon, to have the EFI calibrated and a set of slash cut mufflers put on.. I may have to be at the end of the drive before I can start this one. I know you loose performance some in the sound, but its gotta have some bark.

 

I know you loose performance some in the sound, but its gotta have some bark.

Pete Hill says you loose 10/15 hp in the midrange with a 2/2 straight pipe vs 2/1 on a big twin.

 

Bought a repo 2/1 with a Super-Trapp I got from Summit Racing that is designed for a 250 H.P. auto engine. Stacked all the discs and fired it up. Nice healthy sound, kind of reminiscent of a 1966 SS/396-375 with 2" Hookers. Now, if THAT isn't enough for you.....you got problems with your ego.:rolleyes

 

decisions - Decisions - DECISIONS (baffles or NOT)

BAFFLES vs NO-Baffles

You don't hafta' choose between NO baffles

&

Stock (or quieter) BAFFLES

That is the JOY of Riding an American Bike (Thousands of CHOICES)

The aftermarket is full of TYPES, SIZES, LENGTHS, & NOISE LEVELS for BAFFLES ...

You have pretty much answered YOUR own Question
when you stated that your EARS were "ringing" with the totally OPEN (no) BAFFLES ...

When your PREFERENCES are actually HARMING you PHYSICALLY ...
and your ability to HEAR in you declining years --- FIX the Problem !!!

BAFFLES add a modicum of Back Pressure & aid in your Sporty making HorsePower ... :laugh

BAFFLES Save what's left of your HEARING :rollin

BAFFLES make you easier to Ride WITH (your friENDs will appreciate it)
............................
Measure the Inside Diameter of your Straight PIPES
& BUY a few different Style & Types & Lengths of BAFFLES

Almost ALL baffles install with a SINGLE 1/2" long 1/4" Stainless Steel bolt ...
Try a set of BAFFLES out per Week --- get good & used to them ...
Then change to the Next SIZE or STYLE of BAFFLES
I guarantee you that after a few TEST drives
You will find that SWEET SPOT
Where you get the Powerful SOUND you WANT
Without damaging your Hearing & the PEACE

G@@D Luck ...

BAFFLES are a LOT Cheaper than Hearing AIDS !!! :whoa

Coop

@@@@@@@@

 

Baffled drag pipes does not make legal. 2" on a Sporty seem large unless your motor is modified. Drag pipes are for drag racing and could cost you performance on the street/ If they are popping then timing might be out. I run drags on my shovel. I prefer 1 3/4 but have run 2 inch. I cut down the 1 3/4 about 7 inches purely for looks. I always run a 1/4 bolt through each one toward the end to break up the "wave" which will normally go right back up and possibly into the cylinder. The 2" I weld a 1 3/4 cut washer to a threaded stud and place it just inside the pipes with 2 nuts on the stud (ha ha) so I can swivel them to the possition I like. It all takes experimentation and the physics of exhuast systems is dizzying. Bike runs fast as shovel will go, but everything has to be tweaked until you find the spot. Stock pipes run no better than the drag IMO.

 

you guys seem to be talking apples and oranges to me

baffles, no baffles, drag pipes, 2-1...everything has its place, i have to laugh at dyno charts people put out comparing pipes, why would anyone do this other then to find out what works best with that set up being used

back pressure is a nice term that is often thrown around without real knowledge of what it is, if back pressure gave power then every pipe would be built with that in mind

back pressure is for those guys that have the wrong pipes and try to band-aid them to get more power because the pipe they are running is not meant for the motor set up

for instance lets take drag racing, now on harleys a big 2-1 is used, now 2-1 work to help pull and manipulate the pulse wave to fill the other cylinder, to an extent, at high rpm 2-1 just dont seem to cut it, and you always seem to get a dip in the power curve
on cars, like top fuel they run all single pipes, 8 all lonesome pipes 1 for each cylinder with no aid from any other pipe, so now set up becomes key, top fuel runs higher rpms, so they tune the length of each pipe to run in a specific rpm range and it is typicaly higher then what a 2-1 system can provide good power for

now 2-2 straight pipes are not bad but typicaly dont have the proper length for the set up most people put together and then you also get into header diameter

this is where things get fun with back pressure, some may think that a 2.25 header will have little back pressure, this is actualy quite wrong, when the exhaust is being pushed out you have high and low pressure plus a sound wave, so velocity becomes key, just like in your intake ports, and why dont we throw 2.5 inch valves in a 88 ci motor and expect good results, VELOCITY, yes it flows more, but unless there is velocity behind it, theres no power, exhaust works the same way, think of it as a garden hose, turn it on and the water just runs out with no real speed, start to pinch it off and the flow increases, same thing happens with the exhaust pipe,

a bigger pipe actualy flows slower and does have back pressure because of this, you have alot of velocity out of the port but once it hits that big open header it slows faster then what the motor wants it to and causes back pressure, combine that with the length being typicaly too short to use on the street and with that nice new cam you just bought and stick some cool little baffle in there to help choke the pipe back up to create alittle more "VELOCITY" and you end up with a band-aid pipe set up

we only have mufflers for noise control and now with fuel injection it helps to regulate emissions as well

this is why mufflers are larger and have smaller baffles, so the sound wave has a place to quiet down some but the small baffle helps to get the velocity back up for usable power

unless racing or not carrying about tickets you kinda have to go with whats available
if you had the time, money, and effort you could start trying different size headers along with lengths to find what works best for your motor but keep this in mind one little adjustment effects the entire bike, you change how that motor breathes and you will need to change air/fuel mix and ignition timing, and ignition timing is something well overlooked when people build a motor

thats alittle more then $0.02 but thats alright it will give you guys somthing to think about next time back pressure gets brought up

 

you guys seem to be talking apples and oranges to me

baffles, no baffles, drag pipes, 2-1...everything has its place, i have to laugh at dyno charts people put out comparing pipes, why would anyone do this other then to find out what works best with that set up being used

back pressure is a nice term that is often thrown around without real knowledge of what it is, if back pressure gave power then every pipe would be built with that in mind

back pressure is for those guys that have the wrong pipes and try to band-aid them to get more power because the pipe they are running is not meant for the motor set up

for instance lets take drag racing, now on harleys a big 2-1 is used, now 2-1 work to help pull and manipulate the pulse wave to fill the other cylinder, to an extent, at high rpm 2-1 just dont seem to cut it, and you always seem to get a dip in the power curve
on cars, like top fuel they run all single pipes, 8 all lonesome pipes 1 for each cylinder with no aid from any other pipe, so now set up becomes key, top fuel runs higher rpms, so they tune the length of each pipe to run in a specific rpm range and it is typicaly higher then what a 2-1 system can provide good power for

now 2-2 straight pipes are not bad but typicaly dont have the proper length for the set up most people put together and then you also get into header diameter

this is where things get fun with back pressure, some may think that a 2.25 header will have little back pressure, this is actualy quite wrong, when the exhaust is being pushed out you have high and low pressure plus a sound wave, so velocity becomes key, just like in your intake ports, and why dont we throw 2.5 inch valves in a 88 ci motor and expect good results, VELOCITY, yes it flows more, but unless there is velocity behind it, theres no power, exhaust works the same way, think of it as a garden hose, turn it on and the water just runs out with no real speed, start to pinch it off and the flow increases, same thing happens with the exhaust pipe,

a bigger pipe actualy flows slower and does have back pressure because of this, you have alot of velocity out of the port but once it hits that big open header it slows faster then what the motor wants it to and causes back pressure, combine that with the length being typicaly too short to use on the street and with that nice new cam you just bought and stick some cool little baffle in there to help choke the pipe back up to create alittle more "VELOCITY" and you end up with a band-aid pipe set up

we only have mufflers for noise control and now with fuel injection it helps to regulate emissions as well

this is why mufflers are larger and have smaller baffles, so the sound wave has a place to quiet down some but the small baffle helps to get the velocity back up for usable power

unless racing or not carrying about tickets you kinda have to go with whats available
if you had the time, money, and effort you could start trying different size headers along with lengths to find what works best for your motor but keep this in mind one little adjustment effects the entire bike, you change how that motor breathes and you will need to change air/fuel mix and ignition timing, and ignition timing is something well overlooked when people build a motor

thats alittle more then $0.02 but thats alright it will give you guys somthing to think about next time back pressure gets brought up

:notworthy

 

I recently put the stock exhaust back on my old Ironhead. I've started to get some tinnitus in my right ear, and thought it might help. The bike has noticably more torque now, and doesn't sound too bad, as the older mufflers aren't as quiet as the new ones.

 

I took the baffles out of my 2005 Lowrider with Vance and Hines pipes and I love the sound i get now!!

 

Performance with pipes

I know this has nothing to do with thread header. But I have been tossing around what I should do with my exhaust. I have a 2005 FXDCI, I am getting heads done, putting the S & S 97" on. And going with the 570G cams. I currently have the dual Rhinehart pipes on, which sound and perform awsome with my Stage 2 type set up. Do I need to go to 2 into 1 pipes like Supertrapp, Pro Pipes or Thunderheader? I have read where 2 into 1 is good for high RPM, I am more interested in 2500-5500 torque and HP.

I was just asking for some more feedback, I would like to keep Rhineharts if they will do what I need.

 

I know this has nothing to do with thread header. But I have been tossing around what I should do with my exhaust. I have a 2005 FXDCI, I am getting heads done, putting the S & S 97" on. And going with the 570G cams. I currently have the dual Rhinehart pipes on, which sound and perform awsome with my Stage 2 type set up. Do I need to go to 2 into 1 pipes like Supertrapp, Pro Pipes or Thunderheader? I have read where 2 into 1 is good for high RPM, I am more interested in 2500-5500 torque and HP.

I was just asking for some more feedback, I would like to keep Rhineharts if they will do what I need.

well power range will depend on how the head is ported, too much head, not enough motor, the wrong cams, and well not you have a bike that may run better then stock, but doesnt run like it should

so i cant say exactly what the bike will run like when its finished but i can say what that cam is "DESIGNED" to do, and that is to make peak TQ at about 3500rpm and should run out to 5200, now s&s advertises a higher rpm but you dont know what kind of head they are running and on what size motor, it is a general description of what can be expected

typicaly cams do not have much more then 1500 rpms between peak tq and hp unless you get into cams with more duration and a wide LSA like 112

as for your pipes, a well designed 2-2 will still give good results, but with the right 2-1 it may make alittle higher peak numbers but you always seem to get a dip and odds are you will get this dip right were you will be cruising down the road at...at or around 2000-2500 rpm

a good 2-2 will not have this dip and if the right header size and length are used then you will get a nice flat tq curve especialy with the cam you have chosen, again though alot depends on the head set up the right one can make you and the wrong one can break you

but back to 2-1, again the right one will work good but the wrong one wont work so good, again header size, and length are factors but now you can also get into where the pipes come together typicaly when the pipes come together closer to the motor this will help with top end, the further away they come together will help with low end

im not a fan of 2-1 but looking at what is available i would go with the D&D fatcat (not borezilla, the headers are too big)

wait to see what you get back on your heads, personaly a 1.90 or 1.94 intake valve will be what i would want, a 2.0 or bigger may have good flow numbers but is more then what your motor and cam will need....

when you get it all together let us know what you went with and what you have into it and a dyno, it should be good power everywhere in your rpm range

 

Thanks for the good input!.
Heads are going to be 1.90" Intake and 1.615" Exhaust.
Won't get it all together until week after Memorial Day. I guess I can see what it looks like with the Rhineharts first. I just hate paying to get it tuned again if I change. But, gotta pay to play.

Looking for good streetable power.

 

id stick with the rineharts personaly, they should give you a good powercurve, even my SE slips ons gave a good powercurve so im willing to bet the rineharts will too

and yea the 1.90 should work nice, id love to see the dyno when you get it all done