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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
If ya have an old flat file cut it to length to wedge at an angle between the comp sprocket and clutch hub for installing the drive train. A chunk of wood will crush to much when torquing the comp and clutch bolt.
Not to worry about the clutch pushrod, it slides loose inside the trans main shaft.
Take alotta pics for reference.(y)
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #22
SCHMIDTY---Got it. Thanks for the tip. I will dig up an old file or rod. So as soon as it is light this morning I will go out and start the clutch work.
I did notice a significant smell. Sort of like a burnt clutch but different. It is in the oil and the wet clutch basket. Did someone say that a blown stator might make a weird smell? If not, I think I will micrometer the clutch plates to make sure they are in spec. Might as well not half-ass it. While they are out, I will do it.
I'm not a stunt rider and overall this bike only has 15k miles so the clutch should be fine for the most part. Except I can't speak for the first 7k miles of its life. When I adjusted the clutch last time it was perfect. Just the right amount of free play at the end and engagement beginning at 1/4 pull from the end of the free play. Perfect for me.
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
With all the shit ya found in the primary oil I'd disassemble the clutch and clean everything real good.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
With all the shit ya found in the primary oil I'd disassemble the clutch and clean everything real good.
Amen to that.
So here are the pictures.

Note the discolorations on the clutch plates. I am not sure this is normal or not. I have not seen it before though.
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Here is the cam portion of the compensating sprocket. Note the divot in the one upper portion on the right lobe. Should I replace this sprocket as a matter of concern or leave it?
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Here is the rotor finally off. SCHMIDTY wins the prize. A magnet chunk has been grounding out the stator. Finally it must have cut loose from the rotor causing all kinds of heck.

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Well, it looks like a new stator/rotor assembly is in order. Any recommendations on a reliable maker of this assembly? Also, looks like a clutch pack teardown and cleaning as well just for peace of mind's sake.

Here is a photo from the remainder of the teardown. The inner race of the compensating sprocket that bears on the crankshaft extension is looking odd. See the discolored markings that match up to the inner sprocket race.
Should this be a concern? there is no free play or slop in the 2 parts when assembled.
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There are also wear marks on the inner primary rotor spaces. There is one small chip on the inner primary case along the outer edge of the rotor race. It can be seen here.
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The crankshaft appears to be fine. No movements or wobbles when handled.

Thats all for now. Got to save up for the parts. Guess what I am asking for, for Christmas?

Safe rides to all.
SCHMIDTY, thank you so much for sticking with me through this. I sure appreciate your help and guidance as I am sure everyone does. Thanks to all that commented and made suggestions. That is what makes these forums so great.
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
Spacer is common scuffing, the chip doesn't hurt as long as it's not on the o-ring seal surface.
It's a good bet the shorted stator burnt out the regulator. If you have a test light touch each contact in the regulator connector to ground. If the light comes on the regulator is shot. Battery must be connected for this test.
You did disconnect the battery before disassembly correct ?
I've got some part numbers for ya for replacement parts, no MoCo parts either, they're SHIT !
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #26
Ok so I’ve been looking at JP Cycles and Dennis Kirk for parts just to see and I notice that as far as figment goes I can get from 32, 38, and 45 amp stators and rotors.
Really? How in the world would I know which one is appropriate for my ride? They all say “replacement for H-D part#xxxxx-xx.
For goodness sake. My part is 29951-99A. I hesitate to buy a MoCo part due to price but may have too.
I will do more research.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #27
Crap the battery. Son of a piss biscuit. Idiot.
I did disconnect the stator from the regulator. But just dumbass move. I hope I didn’t fry the ignition. Or worse.

I just replaced the regulator too with a MoCo part.
I’ll test it.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #28
I don’t have a test light but the following was a result of me clipping onto the battery ground.

At the regulator to stator plug, left pin shows 0.790.080 and fluctuates between the two numbers. The right pin as well.
I am not liking the feelings I am getting. Any positive voltage however minuscule is bad... right?
That’s $149.00 of money the MoCo got just 3 weeks ago or so.
Crap
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
J&P # 104-574 sealed rotor, no exposed magnets. $147.56. (Accell)
J&P # 223-305 32 amp stator. $87.99 (Standard Products) No need for more amps.
J&P # 361-858 sealed stator screws. $0.99 (need 4)
Plus primary cover gaskets, etc.. I would use ATF in the primary.
If needed I would use the Standard Products 32 amp regulator too. Quality products there.
If the test light doesn't work then check for DC volts at the reg. connector to a good ground.
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
I don’t have a test light but the following was a result of me clipping onto the battery ground.

At the regulator to stator plug, left pin shows 0.790.080 and fluctuates between the two numbers. The right pin as well.
I am not liking the feelings I am getting. Any positive voltage however minuscule is bad... right?
That’s $149.00 of money the MoCo got just 3 weeks ago or so.
Crap
If you're getting DC volts at the reg. contacts that indicates battery (B+) volts are trickling back thru the reg. to the stator which will discharge the battery when the ignition is off. It's an indication of a failed diode.
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
Cycle Electric. Can't beat the quality.
The part numbers I posted are the same I've used many times with no failures.
If you're not sure about the reg. and have time you can wait until everything is back together and have the bike running to test if the system is charging. Then if it ain't you can pop for a new reg.
J&P # 381-791 32 amp alternator kit. $395.00 (Cycle Electric) But not a sealed rotor, I do not like exposed magnets.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
SCHMIDTY, I’m starting to like the idea of non-exposed magnet for as well. I will talk to the banker (wife) and probably pop for the stator and rotor with associated screws gaskets etc. If I still have current leakage I’ll replace the regulator again.
It won’t damage the new stator will it?
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
SCHMIDTY, I’m starting to like the idea of non-exposed magnet for as well. I will talk to the banker (wife) and probably pop for the stator and rotor with associated screws gaskets etc. If I still have current leakage I’ll replace the regulator again.
It won’t damage the new stator will it?
Not if ya catch it quick. If you're not sure about the reg. I would put it all back together and start the engine and check for charge volts across the battery terminals. Ya wanna see more volts at the terminals with the engine running, 13.5 > 14.5 volts. Then you can do the current drain test later. I'll walk ya thru that too, it's easy.
There's some good UTube vids on checking motorcycle regulators too.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #35
Awesome. I will start pricing out the parts. Also gonna get me a test light for just this thing!
 

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Gypsy on Parade
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4,657 Posts
Jandrso, I appreciate how you’re documenting and keeping us posted. I’m following, and learning from Schmidty’s advice for future reference. These are the kind of threads I enjoy the most on a motorcycle forum.

P.S.
Thanks Schmidty for sticking with him. Like I said the other day, I appreciate how you help folks and don’t dumb-ass them to the point of running them off.
 

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Registered
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4,911 Posts
If I had a bad regulator I probably would have changed it and rode off into the sunset. In hindsight, I wonder if a stator and/or alternator output check would have picked up a one of those bad coils on the stator. I'm thinkin' after seeing your problems that if I ever have a bad voltage regulator, I'm going to check the alternator output and stator. Might save me a real problem - then again, maybe not.
 

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Retired citizen
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22,481 Posts
1st: Record B+ across battery terminals with engine off, should be approx. 12.8v.
2nd: Test B+ with engine running, should be 13.5v - 14.5v. If 15 + volts, bad reg.
3rd: Check at stator plug for shorts or open circuit.
4th: Engine running, check at stator plug for AC volts. Should be approx. 12 volts per 1000 rpm.
5th: if AC volts fluctuate possible faulty rotor.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #39
So I have found the parts needed, on Amazon by the same manufacturers and free shipping! The bad part is they will not be in till at least the 23rd.

So here is a little history on the charging system. I ran the battery without a conditioner/tender for the entire time I have owned it (3 yrs). The battery finally died so I replaced it. The bike was giving me fits like random backfires and CEL and power losses for the briefed of moments for well over 2 years. Then it would go back to normal for a bit.

I changed the plugs (lightly fouled), plug wires, battery cables, battery, tightened all the grounds, and since the regulator did not seem to be charging across the posts at the appropriate values, I put on a new Harley-Davidson regulator 3 weeks or so ago along with the new battery.

All was right with the world for about 4 miles then it started this behavior all over again and then the "INCIDENT" happened. So I suspect, this stator issue has been the issue all the while and it just waited for a pucker factor moment to cut loose all hell on me. Nevertheless, I will be going through the motions and rechecking all the connectors to every end of the harness and using dielectric grease on the connectors.
 

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Dyna Death Machine
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40 Posts
Discussion Starter #40
(Christmas was expensive so I’m low on funds!!!)

Update 1

I know a small number of you good people are following this and I feel like I’m letting you all down by not posting anything productive.

I have the bike stored to the side for now. I have ordered the rotor recommended by SCHMIDTY. I am waiting for another pay period to order the recommended stator and gasket kit.
I hope to be ok with the existing new regulator but am setting aside the money to get that replaced again as well. I am also getting a clutch spring tool to disassemble the clutch to micrometer measure and clean the friction plates as suggested. Is there a homegrown tool to use?? (I do not have any sort of press.)

I am also ordering all the appropriate hoses and clamps to replace the ones on the tank as I feel better about removing it to fix the way the VR wire runs down the frame. I also intend to double check all fittings and plugs to make sure no wires are chafing or grounding out.

Also planning to pull the lowering kit off and as a result of the shocked being off, I will address the frayed left rear turn signal wire under the fender. May replace the stock ones with some Burly 13.5” Stilettos if I can.

That’s all for now.
You all have a Happy New Year!!!!
 
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