Put the LED's back on and go with it!

Your V/R just picked a fun time to eff with you!

If it messes up again, use your nose, really:

If the stator is cooking the V/R, it makes a terrible stench in the primary. But then it will bite the wallet. Because that new V/R just got cooked by a bad stator output!

The stator will just give up the ghost (and smoke) just for chits n giggles. So if you are questioning the stator, just open up the derby cover... If it smells rancid, then the stator is burning up.

Converting to LED, really had no bearing on that V/R taking a dump. This is evident because the same condition existed even after you changed it all back to incandescent lighting.

I run full LED's on my 14 Ultra, with no issues. Just remember to turn on the 4 way hazards for 3 to 5 minutes, so the computer can learn the new voltage reduction required for the new LED turn signals.

Hope this helps you!

 

Put the LED's back on and go with it!

Your V/R just picked a fun time to eff with you!

If it messes up again, use your nose, really:

If the stator is cooking the V/R, it makes a terrible stench in the primary. But then it will bite the wallet. Because that new V/R just got cooked by a bad stator output!

The stator will just give up the ghost (and smoke) just for chits n giggles. So if you are questioning the stator, just open up the derby cover... If it smells rancid, then the stator is burning up.

Converting to LED, really had no bearing on that V/R taking a dump. This is evident because the same condition existed even after you changed it all back to incandescent lighting.

I run full LED's on my 14 Ultra, with no issues. Just remember to turn on the 4 way hazards for 3 to 5 minutes, so the computer can learn the new voltage reduction required for the new LED turn signals.

Hope this helps you!

Thanks 1/2 Ton! I have read several posts regarding the Stator. A couple weeks ago I changed fluids in all three holes. I didn't actually stick my nose into the primary so didn't smell anything unusual, but according to others it stunk up their entire garage.

I didn't know about the Four Ways for 3 to five minutes so I'll be sure to include that step in my reinstall. Since the Headlight and Running Lights also have reduced voltage do I need to do anything to identify with the computer regarding the lower voltage?

I attached pictures of the LEDs I purchased to install. The Turn Signals are a cheaper set off Ebay. The set came with 2 1156 bulbs and 2 1157 bulbs but only one set of mounting rings. Anyone know where I can get a set of Mounting rings for these type LEDs?

 

It's actually not a voltage reduction as the regulator controls that. It's a current reduction resulting in a lower power consumption. Remember: P = I x E. Power (watts) equals current (amps) times voltage (volts). The constant for the bikes is the voltage so the current drops due to higher resistance in the LEDs resulting in lower power consumption. E = I x R is the formula for that. Voltage (E) equals current (I) x resistance (R). Since the voltage stays the same and LEDs have a higher resistance in the circuit, then the current must be lower, resulting in less wattage used of the charging system. That is why there is more power available when you switch to LEDs in a fixed output system like bikes/cars/whatever have. The stator has the final say in how much power your charging system can put out. The rotor affects it as well, but not as much.

 

Thanks RJ64! Great information! I'm kinda a Jack of all Trades, Unfortunately my electrical abilities are at the bottom end of these abilities. I thought the Stator supplied the AC current to the Voltage Regulator and the Voltage Regulator converted the AC to DC to supply the DC to the battery to supply the power needed for the bike. At least this is my conception of how the system works. LOL

Given my Voltage Regulator is putting out the necessary volts 14.5v can I assume my Stator is working efficiently to supply the needed power to the Voltage Regulator? I would think if my Stator was going out it wouldn't be capable of producing the necessary power for the Voltage Regulator to convert.

Yes! I have an inquiring mind, but it has to be in simple terms I can understand..... LOL

My thought process tells me since the LEDs don't use the same amount of voltage as the factory lighting the BCM? (if programmed to identify the correct voltage needed for factory lights) is telling the Voltage Regulator to put out more voltage even though more voltage is not needed.

This in-turn would throw a code in the Diagnostic system showing the Voltage Regulator not function properly?

Sorry if I sound like an idiot......

 

The stator does supply the AC and the VR converts it to regulated DC to hold a constant voltage, until you go over the limits of the equipment. The stator puts out higher AC the more rpm the engine is (and the HZ changes as well but that doesn't matter since we use DC) and the VR has to keep it all together so we don't blow up stuff on the bike. You have a correct understanding of it. If you are holding steady at whatever voltage it is supposed to be at, which 14.5v is good, then there are no issues. But remember that the voltage stays the same, the output of the stator current is controlled by the VR. It is actually two devices in one. It converts stator AC to DC and keep the voltage consistent. Cars are different as the AC is changed into DC with the alternator and the VR just keeps the voltage constant by varying the output of the alternator. Two different ways of getting to the same result. Where you are saying the voltage changes you should be saying the current changes. The voltage stays constant at 14.5v while the engine is running. The more stuff you need power to the more the stator is being demanded from. It can seem a bit complicated but once you get a grip on it you will see how simple it really is.

BTW, since the voltage regulator does two jobs you will also see it listed as a regulator/rectifier.

 

Thanks Again! I see I’m on the right track just different terminology…. Lol
So no need to worry about the computer software telling the VR to increase output because the LEDs draw less amps than the factory lights?
In other words let’s say the factory lights need 8 volts to function so the software tells the computer to check for 8 volts or if not the computer throws a code not enough volts coming from VR. In the case of changing to LEDs that need very little volts wouldn’t the computer indicate low voltage to the lights? Or is the computer smart enough to recognize the factory lights were replaced with LEDs?
Yes I understand I changed terminology in my posts…. Volts/Amps……

 

OK Still trying to decide on which route to go on my 2013 Ultra Classic LED Turn Signals. Do I do the Load Equalizers or Solid State Flasher? Spent hours searching the internet last night.

Everything I've read mentions the Load Equalizers get extremely hot and have to be mounted where they get plenty of airflow. Everything on a Harley seems to get hot during peak riding reason so not really waning to add to the equation.

It sounds like a Solid State Flasher or a something like a timer can be used, but where is the plug in flasher located on my bike? I know they are round or square and plug into the fuse box on an automobile, just can't find it on my bike.

In researching most of the Harley Forums that address the LED Turn Signals speak of older bikes from the 1990's and I know lots of things have changed since the 90's. Even the need for Load Equalizers changed from 2013 to 2014.

I'm hoping I can purchase a $10 module that is Plug and Play so I don't need to splice Load Equalizers into the wiring.

Has anyone else used the Solid State Flasher or Timer on their bike?

 

Well, OK the Custom Dynamics module doesn't get hot, at least not like traditional resistors. Inline resistors are what gets really hot and needs airflow, and they're not truly "load equalizers" in the same sense as something like that CD module.

I have the same module that 1/2 ton linked to (or at least, the same module that's specific to my model of bike, which is really just what plug it comes with to plug into the harness) and I just have it mounted under the seat, on the frame behind the battery on my softail. No airflow in there and it's been perfectly fine. That module is relatively new and before that, it used to be two separate modules (one for the brake light strobing and run/brake/turn conversion and one as an equalizer) and I ran those for a while also without issue.

I would also recommend the module he linked because it gives you every option you could possibly want. You can spend less on just the load equalizer from CD, but it won't give you options for strobing the rear brake light and it won't give you options to convert the rear turn signals to run/brake/turn (instead of being just turn).

The good thing about the CD load equalizers is they all have two settings, a high and a low. The low setting would be for if you just concerted the turn signals and nothing else, the high setting would be if you additionally converted the taillight to LED and/or added a strobing module. But generally, you start with it switched on low and see if that fixes the problem. If it doesn't, then you switch to high.

Also, at least for Harley's, all the CD equalizers are plug-and-play, no splicing or soldering required. The only real downside is that the stuff can get pricey fast. But like I said, you don't have to buy the $80 or whatever "smart triple play" load equalizer if you know you're never going to want a strobing brake light and don't care if the turn signals are r/b/t.

Going with resistor type "load equalizers", you have to sometimes add more than one until you get everything evened-out, depending on how much of the lighting system you have changed.

I haven't personally used any other brand, but I am sure there's others out there that are similar. Not sure what these "solid state" things are you're talking about. As far as I know, they're all solid-state electronics technically unless it's just a plain old resistor. Solid-state just means ICBs, semiconductors, transistors and such with no moving parts as opposed to analog like vacuum tubes, electromechanical relays, magnetic reading, etc.

 

Well said Kyle!
I am a fan of the Custom Dynamics products. They may cost more than the others but, they work and the company stands behind their products.
I hate buying headaches! Therefore i will NOT buy any of those funky letter brands from amazon.

There's an old mechanics saying: You can get by one time with a cheap tool, but be prepared to buy one with each task! Or Buy the tool with the best quality once, then use it forever.

Same rules apply to motorcycles and guns. It's all about the investment and what you want out of it.

 

Thanks to all who have suggested fixes for my LED Turn Signals. I really do appreciate all the knowledge. At this point I'm going to just stay with my current factory set up with bulbs because it sounds as though It's going to cost me more than I wish to take from my Military Retirement.

I have a saying: Shelter first, then food, then transportation. The Harley is my weekend riding toy. I can't afford to invest the money Custom Dynamics is asking for their products. I know they are well spoken in the Harley Forum, but I just can't afford those prices.

I'd rather buy the gas, do charity rides, and enjoy the company than have a Harley with nice lights sitting in the garage.

Hopefully I'll meet some of you while cruising even if it's just a wave going in the other direction.

Take Care, God Bless, Ride Safe!

 

I know the OP has bowed out, but I wanted to add that the CD "solid state" flashers are a FAR, FAR better solution than a simple resistor-based solution. I had one under my seat for 10 years, and it worked perfectly. I personally think the r/s/t mod is one of the best lighting mods that can be done. I have the CD triple-play, and I have it set for a very brief strobe before going to solid. It works beautifully. In light of everything that the CD product does, I think it is pretty fairly priced. I paid less than $100 for it new through their site.